Travel at Nancy France
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Are you ready to discover another beautiful city where life is good?
After taking you to Metz, I am taking you to the city of my childhood, Nancy in the heart of Lorraine. You know, that city that has one of the most beautiful squares in Europe, Place Stanislas, the last Duke of Lorraine. It is also the city where I was born and spent my early years and where I discovered the big boo-boos. Like when I had the crazy idea of wanting to slide down the slide standing up… That’s an example. My parents then moved to the countryside when I was about 5 years old. It wasn’t until I was 16 that I returned to my city to finish my high school years, attend the conservatory, and pursue my studies.
The city center
The covered market
I’ll start by taking you to the very center of Nancy, passing by the Saint Sébastien church which is right in front of the Central Market, one of the most important markets for Lorraine gastronomy.
It is located on Place Charles III in Nancy, in the heart of what is called the Ville-neuve. It has occupied this place for more than four centuries, bakers, booksellers, florists also offer their delicious products. I love to come here for a walk and stroll, it gives me the feeling of living in another era.
Place Stanislas
Let’s meet at Place Stanislas, with King Stanislas right in the middle. This square is filled with history, but above all, it is classified as a UNESCO World Heritage site. It is home to several restaurants, the Town Hall, the Hotel de la Reine, the Museum of Fine Arts, the Opéra National de Lorraine and a few nightclubs.
Today it is pedestrianized, but in the past, cars could circulate all around it. It was completely renovated a few years ago with white cobblestones. I still remember when cars could pass through, of course, I was a passenger but I remember because it was always chaotic.
On one side of the square is the Hotel de Ville, or the Palais Stanislas. This monument is simply magnificent. Between the talent of Jean Lamour for the exterior guardrails and the interior, Italian and German influences or paintings by great painters such as Emile Friant and Victor Prouvé, it is a masterpiece. If you have the opportunity, go and have a look inside, it is beautiful.
Grand Hotel de la Reine
To the right of it is the Grand Hotel de la Reine. Also splendid. It is a charming hotel, which, like the Town Hall, houses magnificent decors. You can simply have lunch or dinner there.
I will always remember the moment of pride I felt for my grandfather Michel Caffier, who received the Knight of Arts and Letters medal from Mr François Nourricier. He was the editor-in-chief of the Est républicain newspaper for a period of his life, but also a literary critic and finally a writer. That day, everything was on a grand scale, the waiters were all wearing gloves, and the dishes arrived under shiny bells. There was a very funny contrast because my cousin, who is 1.95m tall, was wearing giant dreadlocks that day! I still laugh about it.
The National Opera of Lorraine
On the other side is the Opéra National de Lorraine, formerly known as the Opéra National de Nancy. It always presents an exciting program for enthusiasts. Believe it or not, my mother used to dance there when she was young, yes, she was part of the troupe. As for me, I did some extra work there when I was 18. It was a very joyful and human experience. It is a great opportunity to be able to mingle with great soloists from Russia, Ukraine, and England. They are funny above all! I think those were the best laughs of my life, especially in the famous restaurant Le Foy, on the square. A very chic restaurant where we had dinner after a performance of Rigoletto. We were not exactly discreet that night.
To briefly talk about the opera, it was devastated by a terrible fire in 1906 and was rebuilt by Joseph Hornecker, a Nancéien architect from the School of Nancy. It can accommodate up to 1050 people and contains a balcony, an orchestra floor, two galleries, all in red, white, and gold tones. It is magnificent.
Museum of Fine Arts
The Museum of Fine Arts is the cornerstone of Nancy’s cultural life. It was designed by the Architect of King Stanislas, Emmanuel Héré, and features touches by Jean Lamour. The collection initially came from the confiscation of Church property during the French Revolution. Over the years, the works have come from different collections belonging to different empires. In order to accommodate more works, it was expanded by Luca Lotti. Behind it is a garden where outdoor extensions were organized in the summer of 2020 for nearby bars and restaurants to enjoy a drink while listening to nice music.
As you can see, Place Stanislas is full of jewels! What I haven’t mentioned yet is that you can also dine there all year round. In summer, the terraces are crowded, the atmosphere is lively and joyful, and in winter, you can warm up inside or on the terrace, under the heaters. For a drink or a meal, you will be served with professionalism in a magnificent setting.
La Pépinière Park
Childhood
My story with La Pépinière Park begins the day my mother’s waters broke in front of the carousel, as I used to call it. She was with my two older cousins who were 5 years old at the time. The rest will be told in another article!
And then, there were the first stroller rides, the first swings and slides! But also, the first big falls, oh my! That day when I smashed my lip! Anyway! It is also in the chestnut tree alley that I remember trying to ride a bike without training wheels for the first time. Enough about me! Let’s have a brief history lesson.
La Pépinière, a rejuvenating park
It is located in the historic center of Nancy, behind Place Stanislas and along Place Carrière. It is both a real haven of peace and a gigantic playground for children. There are also facilities for playing basketball and football. With its 21 hectares of land, there is plenty to do. It is really rejuvenating.
Around the months of September and October, the Nancy Jazz Pulsation takes place, a music festival that lasts about ten days. It is also the meeting place for outdoor yoga classes or dance. Can you imagine doing that a few centuries ago in Stanislas’ royal nursery? Yes, yes, it belonged to him, and it wasn’t until 1835 that it became public.
As I said, it is also paradise for athletes and families. What a pleasure it is to go for a jog early in the morning and say hello to the animals. Yes, there is a small zoo too. But well, knowing my point of view on the matter, I won’t dwell on that…
This park, also called La Pep’, welcomes everyone for good moments with family, among athletes, and for a bite to eat. I didn’t mention it, but there is a cafeteria where you can eat very well, as well as other stands offering crepes, waffles, and ice cream! Yummy!
The Old Town
Gastronomy in Nancy
If you are food lovers or gastronomy enthusiasts, you must visit the Old Town of Nancy. Especially on Des Maréchauds Street, or as locals call it, Gourmand Street. You will find restaurants for all tastes and a great quality-price ratio. This slightly sloping street will immediately seduce you with its decor, liveliness, and gastronomic choices. There are also hidden gems in the adjacent streets. I suggest you get lost a bit in the old town to find the restaurant that suits you.
What do we do before eating? We have an aperitif, but we have it on the St-Êpreve square, at the entrance of the old town. This square is very lively, always crowded with young people and it’s a great place to spend some time!
A bit of history
One of the entrances to the Old Town is the Porte de la Craffe. There is a lot of history here. It is one of the oldest monuments in the historic center of Nancy, and the only vestige of the medieval fortifications. It is now a symbol of the old town which was built in the 14th and 15th centuries.
As you stroll through the narrow streets of the Old Town, which are truly beautiful, you will find the Palace of the Dukes of Lorraine, which is the Lorrain Museum. Another cultural activity to do.
There is so much to say about the old town, its history, its splendid buildings. Like the Hôtels de Charmes that are hidden in the streets. They are a bit more expensive, but it is definitely worth staying there.
Architecture and style
From an architectural point of view, Nancy is also a city full of history with its buildings from different periods and the different styles found there. It was in this city that the School of Nancy was born, the Art Nouveau style. The goal was to bring beauty and art into every home. It was worked in iron, glass, steel, and wood, and the motifs represented were mainly greenery and flowers.
I hope this article makes you want to visit this lively city. There is also a video below to complement this article with visuals!