Lively terrace of the Bodeguita Salinas in Tavira on a summer evening: groups seated around wine barrels turned into high tables, sign "Tapas & Vinos," light from the street lamps.

La Bodeguita Salinas, the small tapas bar in Tavira that closes the street to seat us

Xavier 8 min
Restaurants Rua 4 de Outubro 30, 8800-362 Tavira, Portugal

Our review of La Bodeguita Salinas, the small tapas bar in Tavira that closes the street to seat us

4
4/5 — Very well Our review

Benefits

  • Table wines clearly above the Tavira average
  • Generous pours for €3.50 to €5 a glass
  • A playlist that carries the atmosphere, far more often good than bad
  • A terrace that takes over the whole street in summer
  • An azulejo neighbourhood next door, a short walk from the historic centre

Disadvantages

  • An interior of barely fifteen square metres, so everything depends on the weather and the season
  • Simple tapas, with mackerel that comes straight from the tin
  • You need to turn up early at the height of summer to get a seated table

Who is this place for?

  • Couples who would rather share drinks and small plates than sit down to dinner
  • Travellers who want to drink better without paying more
  • First-timers in Tavira looking for one simple, reliable address

Our tapas hideout in Tavira, where we come as much for the drinks and atmosphere as for the food.

Don’t look for the room, there isn’t one.

Well, there is one, indoors. One single entrance, no crossing possible, you exit where you came in. And inside, what is there? About fifteen square meters, a rather small bar, a kitchen hidden behind a large curtain, and the restrooms. That’s it, you’ve seen it all. So in the summer, the bar does the only thing that makes sense when you’re too small for your customers: it puts up barriers at both ends of the street, closes it to cars, and sets up its tables on it.

Lively terrace of Bodeguita Salinas in Tavira on a summer evening: the tapas and wine bar occupies the car-free street, with several groups seated outside.

As a result, starting in spring, an entire street in Tavira becomes the terrace of a tapas bar. Wine barrels planted in the middle serve as high tables, people linger around with a drink in hand, and no one finds it strange. We, have been coming back for three or four seasons to sit in this confiscated street, and we still don’t want to stop.

The white and blue facade of Rua 4 de Outubro

The bar is located right near a roundabout, at the end position, which gives it that little spot feel at a street corner. You can spot it from afar by its white and blue facade, very Algarvean, and especially by the slates hanging on the wall: the list of tapas on one side, the wine list on the other, all written in chalk, with the prices. No laminated menu, no photos of dishes, no touts jumping on you.

Right next door are small traditional Portuguese houses with their azulejos. Caroline cares a lot about this, and she’s right: the bar doesn’t float above ground, it’s set in a particularly successful piece of Tavira. We’re just a few minutes from the historic center, on this path we take every stay without ever getting tired of it (and if you’re wondering why we talk so much about this city, we’ve written a whole article on why Tavira is for us the most beautiful city in the Algarve).

Our hideout, season after season

There are places we try once for the article, and there are those we return to for ourselves. La Bodeguita Salinas clearly falls into the second category. We settle in without thinking, we know the chairs, we know the ritual, and that’s exactly why we go there. It’s not a restaurant, it’s not even really a gastronomic address, it’s a tapas and wine bar where we want to stay.

What Caroline loves first is precisely that this bar is very small. It gives it the charm of a street-front bar, the kind of decor you imagine in a coastal town filmed in the cinema, somewhere between Mediterranean and Latino. I’m more down-to-earth: between the barrels, the slates, and the owners behind the counter, I mostly feel like I’m in a Quentin Tarantino movie, the one where everyone chats for twenty minutes over a drink.

There’s a detail that Caroline is very attached to, and which does a lot for the identity of the place: the playlists. They are much more often good than bad, and that’s frankly rare for a bar of this size. For a long time it was blues, a bit of American country, a relaxed atmosphere that gave the feeling of traveling elsewhere while sitting in Tavira. This time, it was more salsa, more reggaeton, nice too but she had a preference for the old formula.

Another silly yet decisive detail: the seating is comfortable. The terrace chairs are small wooden chairs with green canvas, foldable, the kind you stack in thirty seconds when evening comes. It may not seem like much, but after an entire season of big white plastic chairs everywhere else, it’s much more pleasant, and it contributes to the charm of the place as much as the rest.

On the customer side, there’s a little amusing contrast. On paper, the names you hear called sound rather Portuguese. But as soon as you lend an ear on the terrace, there’s a lot of English being spoken, and quite a bit of French too. It’s a bar well anchored locally but frequented by a very international clientele, which is not surprising for Tavira in the middle of summer.

The tapas: simple, and that’s just fine

We always start the same way, two Imperials, the small Portuguese beers of 20 centiliters, and we look at the slate. That day we had four tapas: chorizo, ham, cheese, and mackerel. Watch out for the chorizo, here it’s not the big chouriço flambéed with brandy in the Portuguese way, it’s simply slices of Iberian chorizo laid on a board. Simple, effective, perfect with the beer.

The plate of Iberian ham is Spanish cured ham, and here we step up a notch: it’s frankly the best in this category. The fresh goat cheese with honey and walnuts was our pleasant surprise, especially since it’s identified as a Monte Pereiro, which proves that there is indeed, at least for some products, a real sourcing logic behind the apparent simplicity of the menu.

The mackerel, let’s be honest, is more in the canned category, quality can, which is perfectly consistent with the format of the place. We complemented it with a slice of presunto ibérico, homemade bread rubbed with olive oil, tomato, and pimenta, with the ham laid on top, and with the tiras de choco frito. Despite the name that might suggest octopus, these are fried cuttlefish fritters with garlic mayonnaise, and they disappear quickly.

The verdict is simple, and it should be taken with the right level of expectation: yes, it’s good, but we’re not in fine dining. It’s hard to make a gastronomic judgment on a slice of chorizo, right? We’re in quick bites, a kind of Spanish-Portuguese finger food, and the tapas are generally quite good without ever seeking complexity. It’s a place for evenings when you think “let’s go have some tapas on the go”, not for a birthday dinner.

If you’re looking for a real meal in Tavira, we have other addresses for that, like Nikita with its French touch, or 37 Casa de Pasto with its short organic and local menu. La Bodeguita, on the other hand, plays a completely different role in the evening.

The real good deal is the wine

Here’s the point where the place really stands out from the competition. The wines served here are generally superior to what you find in many restaurants in Tavira, and more broadly in Portugal, when you order the cheap house wine. These are not expensive wines, it’s something else: cheap wines of better quality, which is not at all the same experience.

That evening we drank Quinta Sá de Baixo, the house wine from Douro, served by the glass for around 3.50 €. The slate also offers Britango from Douro, Alva Magna from Dão, and Paxá, an Algarvean, between 4-5 € a glass, with bottles around 14-18 €. And a detail that matters when you stay a while: the servings are generous, significantly more than the average in the sector.

What we like to do there

The typical program for us can be summed up in four lines: a cold beer to start, a glass of wine afterwards, some tapas to share, and sometimes a little burger for 9 € when hunger strikes for real. It’s not spectacular, it’s not supposed to be, and yet it totally does the job every time.

Terrace of the Bodeguita Salinas in Tavira in the evening, groups seated in the street under the urban lighting of the historic center.

The best moment remains the evening, when the street fills up, the streetlights come on, and groups gather around the barrels. That’s when the place takes on its full dimension, and that’s also when you need to arrive a bit early if you want a seated table rather than standing. In the middle of August, the street fills up quickly, especially between 7 PM and 9 PM.

Practical information


Where: Rua 4 de Outubro nº 30, 8800-362 Tavira, right near the roundabout, white and blue facade.
Type: tapas and wine bar, not a classic restaurant. The interior is about fifteen square meters (bar, kitchen hidden behind a curtain, restrooms), so everything happens on the terrace.
Season: it’s in summer that the street is closed to cars and the terrace takes up all the space. Off-season, the format is necessarily much more reduced.
What we take: Iberian ham, fresh goat cheese with honey and walnuts, tiras de choco frito, slice of presunto ibérico, and a glass of Quinta Sá de Baixo.
Budget: tapas from 4-8.50 €, slices around 7-7.50 €, burgers from 9-14 €, wine by the glass from 3.50-5 €.
What we remember: our tapas hideout in Tavira, where we come as much for the drink and the atmosphere as for the food.

PS: if one day you pass by and the playlist has gone back to blues, let us know. Caroline will have a glass of Quinta Sá de Baixo just to celebrate that, and I’ll be happy to stay two more hours watching the street fill up.