Portugal

Portugal is where our vanlife story really took root. It is the country we keep coming back to, the one whose backroads we know almost by heart, from the surf-battered cliffs of the southwest to the granite villages of the far north. For a first camper road trip in Europe, it is hard to think of a friendlier, more rewarding place to point the van.

Below you will find a guide for every town we fell for, organised by region so you can build your own loop. Compact distances, a dense network of aires and stopovers, and locals who wave you through: Portugal simply makes sense on four wheels.

The Algarve, where our Portugal begins

The south is where most trips start, and where ours did too. We based ourselves for months around the eastern lagoons, between Faro and its islands, the salt-and-tile charm of Tavira, the working harbour of Olhão, and the tiny island village of Fuseta. This is slow travel at its easiest, with warm water well into autumn.

Head west and the coast turns dramatic. Lagos and its golden cliffs, the end-of-the-world lighthouses of Sagres, the Moorish castle of Silves inland, and buzzing Portimão for its grilled sardines. The western Algarve feels wilder, and it is our favourite stretch to chase a sunset.

Lisbon and the centre

Rolling north, the centre mixes fairytale and Atlantic drama. The palaces of Sintra are worth every hairpin, the giant waves of Nazaré are a spectacle in their own right, and the Templar town of Tomar hides one of the country’s great monuments. Further up, canal-laced Aveiro earns its nickname as the Venice of Portugal. The centre rewards a slower pace, so we never rush this part.

Porto and the green north

The north is cooler, greener and, to us, endlessly underrated. Porto is all port cellars and tiled facades tumbling down to the Douro, Guimarães is the historic cradle of the nation, and remote Bragança guards the wild northeastern frontier. Portugal’s north surprises everyone, ourselves included, every single time.

The Alentejo, Portugal at its wildest

Between the capital and the deep south lies our secret Portugal. The Roman bones and whitewashed lanes of Évora, and the raw, near-empty coast where Vila Nova de Milfontes and Porto Covo sit above cliffs and hidden coves. The Alentejo coast stays gloriously quiet, which is exactly why we love it.

Festivals and everyday life

Some of our strongest memories here are nights, not places. The sardine smoke and plastic hammers of São João in Porto, the summer snail feast of the Tavira Caracóis festival. Time your trip with a local festa if you can, because that is when Portugal truly opens up to you.

Sleeping, tolls and the best time to go

Portugal is generously equipped with aires and private camper stopovers, and the Algarve in particular is a joy to travel by van. Wild camping rules have tightened in recent years, especially near the coast, so we stick to official spots and keep a low profile. Motorway tolls run on the electronic system, worth sorting before you cross the border, and spring and autumn are the sweet spots: mild, green and quiet.

Pick a region, follow the guides, and let the rest unfold at camper pace. Portugal rewards those who slow down, and there is no finer way to do it than on four wheels with a full tank.