Our review of Machado
Benefits
- Authentic family Portuguese cuisine, frequented by locals
- Generous portions and prices that have remained fair over ten years
- Six daily specials updated each day
- A warm team, and a really funny Instagram
Disadvantages
- No service in the evening, only at lunchtime
- The covered terrace still gets the sun in its face at noon
- Grilled dishes take at least twenty minutes
A safe bet in Tavira for ten years, as long as you go there at noon.
There was a bone in the cod. A real one, a small one, one of those you feel under your teeth before you see it, and that you place on the edge of the plate while grimacing. Except that this bone changes everything in the meal, and it took me some time to admit it.
We are at Machado, a snack bar in Tavira that displays “Since 1990” on its sign, and it’s one of the very first places I tried here about ten years ago. Since then, we’ve moved, we live in the city, we’ve tried many other places, and that one hasn’t changed. It has become our go-to spot when we want to eat Portuguese without questioning.
Why this bone is a good sign and not a flaw
The reflex when you come across a bone is to think that the kitchen has cut corners. I had exactly that reflex, and then I told myself the opposite: it means that it’s real fish. Not a reconstituted texture, not something that has been treated until it no longer resembles an animal. A cod that still has its bones is a cod that hasn’t been altered.
And upon digging deeper, the intuition holds up. The bacalhau sold in packets, the one called desfiado or in industrial flakes, arrives in the kitchen already shredded, without skin or bones. It’s a convenient, prepped product, ready to use. A kitchen that opens this packet will never serve you a bone, simply because there are none left since it left the factory.
In contrast, traditional Portuguese cooking starts with a whole piece that is salted, cooked, and flaked by hand. Better: the rule repeated in Portuguese kitchens is to keep skin and bones during cooking, precisely because they hold the structure of the fish and prevent the flesh from drying out. The bone is therefore not a mishap; it’s the mark of a method.
That day, I had the salada de bacalhau com grão, the cod salad with chickpeas, chosen from the daily specials at 11.50 €. Chickpeas, flaked cod, hard-boiled egg, black olives, parsley, olive oil. Nothing sophisticated, and frankly very good for the price. Caroline, on the other hand, had her grilled chicken, her absolute safe bet, the one she orders when she knows she won’t be disappointed.
The little sheet of daily specials, and why you need to arrive early
Every day, Machado puts out a little sheet with the daily specials, in addition to the regular menu. We always said “there are about five,” and when we picked up the sheet on September 3rd, we counted six, plus a soup. So much for precision; we weren’t counting very well.
That day: spinach soup at 2.50 €, roast lamb at 14 €, stuffed squid and baked salmon at 12 €, braised turkey leg at 10.50 €, and the famous cod salad. The important detail: these dishes are announced in limited quantities, it’s not an infinite stock. If you’re aiming for the daily special, don’t show up at the end of service.
What it really costs, and why we go back
This is where the address really shines. The grilled chicken is 8 € for a half portion and 16 € for a full portion, the pork bitoque is 10 €, the sea bream and bass are 13.50 €, and the bread is 1.30 € for a small basket. You can go up, of course; there’s T-bone and picanha at the top of the menu, but nothing forces you to do so.
And the portions are generous. That’s what makes you leave having eaten very well without feeling like you’ve splurged, even when you’re several at the table. Ten years I’ve been coming, and the value for money hasn’t budged an inch, which in a city that’s becoming more touristy is no small feat.
A word about the menu: it’s bilingual in Portuguese and English, and it warns at the bottom of the page that grilled dishes, bitoques, and breaded items are prepared to order and may take at least twenty minutes. This is not an excuse for bad service; it’s the opposite of a reheated dish. Plan for the time, that’s all.
The team, and the Instagram account worth checking out
The service is provided by a team of women who are genuinely friendly, smiling, warm, the kind to recognize you after just two visits. And that personality doesn’t stop there.
Check out their Instagram, seriously. They regularly post videos that have nothing to do with typical restaurant content: they take on trends, dress up, and film themselves, especially during their holiday departures. It’s often very funny, and it perfectly matches the atmosphere you find on-site.
The covered terrace, and the sunburn we didn’t expect
There’s an indoor room that can accommodate quite a few tables, and a covered terrace. The word “covered” is a bit optimistic at noon: the sun finds its way and beats down on faces. In the middle of summer, at lunchtime, this is not a figment of the imagination.
The result is that you come out with very red cheeks, even more so if you accompanied the meal with a drink. Nothing dramatic, but if you’re the type to burn easily, ask for a table inside or aim for the back of the veranda.
A street named after an actor, and a rooftop thirteen numbers away
Machado is located at 4A Rua António Pinheiro, slightly outside the tourist heart of Tavira, but just barely: we’re talking a few minutes on foot. And this street bears a name worth stopping for, because it’s not an anonymous local notable. António José Pinheiro was an actor, born in Tavira in 1867 and died in Lisbon in 1943.
He was one of the great figures of Portuguese theater from the late 19th to the first half of the 20th century, an actor in the major companies of his time, and then especially a director and teacher at the national conservatory, where he trained an entire generation of actors. Tavira eventually gave his name to its theater, and to this street. So you’re eating your cod on the street of the greatest theater man in the city.
Another thing, and it’s convenient: at number 17 of the same street, just a few dozen meters away, there’s the rooftop everyone talks about. A lunch at Machado followed by a drink up high at sunset can be done without getting back in the car. We detailed the place in our profile on the Nomad.
The Nomad, the best view of Tavira for the price of a drink in the city center
Le Nomad, the rooftop of the Maria Nova Lounge in Tavira, open to everyone all year round. Almost 360-degree terrace overlooking the Ria Formosa, the Rio Gilao, and the rooftops...
Read moreWho we recommend Machado to
To those who are starting to tire of photo menus and touristy options, and who want a Portuguese canteen where mostly locals go. It’s exactly what it is: not a gourmet restaurant, not a trendy spot, a good family canteen that has been doing its job since 1990.
A fair warning though, and it’s important for planning your day: it’s only open for lunch. Meals are served from 12 to 3 PM, then it switches to hot snacks and tapas until early evening, but it’s not the same meal. If you’re looking for dinner, this is not the place to come. For the complete context of the city, we’ve included everything in our article on Tavira.