Caroline taking a selfie in a red sari in India

India SIM Card: Why the Local SIM Makes You Wait 48 Hours

Internet & Communication Caroline & Xavier 17 min

-5% off your Holafly eSIM for India

At the very bottom of this guide, the promo code LAPLANETEDECARO gives you -5% off your Holafly India eSIM. But before you reach for your card, here is the question no comparison site asks: do you even need it? We walk through the three ways to stay connected in India, your UK plan (which will likely sting you here), a local SIM, and the Holafly eSIM, plus the thing nobody tells you: what actually happens at the counter, and where you will catch signal across the subcontinent.


The Taj Mahal at dawn, a pink fort above Jaipur, a houseboat drifting through the Kerala backwaters, a night train crossing Rajasthan, and high above it all, the lakes of Ladakh. India is never a single place: it is a subcontinent you move across, from city to desert, temple to mountain. And the question always lands as you pack: SIM card, eSIM, or will your plan do?

Here is the honest starting point: India is outside the EU, so there is no free roaming to fall back on. Most UK networks will charge you around £7 to £8 a day to use your phone there, which quietly turns into £150 or more over a three-week trip. We dug into all of it for you: the real cost of UK roaming, the local SIM prices in August 2026, and above all the part comparison sites skip, the paperwork to get a local SIM (passport, visa, photo, and a 24 to 48 hour wait), and coverage from the Golden Triangle up to the valleys of the Himalayas.

On the menu: your UK plan put to the test, the Jio / Airtel / Vi / BSNL line-up, the real price of an Indian SIM, the Holafly eSIM, network coverage from the cities to Ladakh, and our signature section: the genuine red tape of the tourist local SIM, the one the eSIM skips entirely.

Why you need internet in India

India is a country where your phone works hard from morning to night. For getting around first: Google Maps to make sense of Delhi’s traffic chaos, Uber and Ola to grab a car or a rickshaw without haggling, the IRCTC app to book train tickets and track your PNR status, and translation to decode a menu in Hindi or Tamil.

Then there is everyday India, now largely cashless: UPI, Paytm and Google Pay are everywhere, from the smart restaurant to the chai seller on the corner, and without data you cut yourself off from the country’s handiest way to pay. Add Zomato and Swiggy for deliveries, weather before an excursion, and the Indian e-visa you sort online before you even leave: it all runs on a connection.

Three ways to stay online: your UK plan roaming (pricey here, India being outside the EU), a local Indian SIM (Jio, Airtel, Vi or BSNL) bought on arrival, or a Holafly India eSIM activated from home before you go. We go through them one by one, and we save the awkward bit for last: what they actually ask you for at the counter to sell you a local SIM.

Solution 1: will your UK plan work in India (and what it costs)?

Before you reach for your card, check what you already pay for. It is the most profitable tip in this whole guide, and exactly what the eSIM sellers will never volunteer.

India sits well outside the EU and the EEA. The “roam like at home” rule that lets you browse free from Spain to Greece does not apply, so UK networks bill India as a daily Rest of World pass. Here is where the big networks stand:

  • EE: India is a Roaming Zone, charged at around £7.50 a day (or £37.50 a week), giving you your UK allowance abroad.
  • Three: India is out of the inclusive list, covered through its Around the World add-on at around £8 a day for anyone who joined after December 2025.
  • Vodafone: Rest of World zone, a daily pass at around £7.86 a day.
  • O2: around £7 a day with the Travel bolt-on, or included free if you are on a Volt, Plus or Ultimate plan (Travel Inclusive Zone).
  • giffgaff: no roaming outside Europe, data billed at 10p per MB (roughly £100 a GB, effectively unusable).
  • Lebara: the good surprise, India is included on some plans (up to 10 GB and free minutes).

The rule is simple: do not guess, check. Open your network’s app, find the included-country list, and see whether India is actually on it. Just below, our table breaks it down plan by plan.

India: does my plan work there?

Plan Data Duration Price Network 🇮🇳 India
EU Roaming 7-Day Pass Recommended 50 GB 7 days €17.90 4G ✗ No
Zone 1 Weekly Pass Recommended 50 GB 7 days €29.85 4G ✗ No
EU Roaming Daily Pass 50 GB 1 day €3.10 4G ✗ No
Zone 1 Daily Pass 50 GB 1 day €5.97 4G ✗ No
Zone 2 Daily Pass 50 GB 1 day €8.96 4G ✓ Yes
Zone 3 Daily Pass 512 MB 1 day €8.96 4G ✗ No
Zone 4 Daily Pass 10 MB 1 day €17.92 4G ✗ No
EU Roaming 12-Day Pass 50 GB 12 days €25.70 4G ✗ No
Zone 2 Weekly Pass 50 GB 7 days €44.78 4G ✓ Yes
Plan Data Duration Price Network 🇮🇳 India
Go Roam in Europe Recommended 12 GB 1 day €3.29 4G ✗ No
Go Roam Around the World 12 GB 1 day €9.56 4G ✗ No
Go Roam Around the World Extra 12 GB 1 day €9.56 4G ✓ Yes
Plan Data Duration Price Network 🇮🇳 India
8-Day Europe Pass Recommended 25 GB 8 days €19.12 4G ✗ No
Euro Roam Daily 25 GB 1 day €3.29 4G ✗ No
Global Roam Daily (Zone C) 25 GB 1 day €9.56 4G ✗ No
Global Roam Daily (Zone D) 25 GB 1 day €9.56 4G ✓ Yes
15-Day Europe Pass 25 GB 15 days €25.10 4G ✗ No
Plan Data Duration Price Network 🇮🇳 India
Europe Zone (included) Recommended 25 GB 30 days €0.00 4G ✗ No
Data Roaming Bolt-On Zone 1 (1 GB) 1 GB 30 days €7.17 4G ✗ No
O2 Travel Bolt On Unlimited 1 day €8.37 4G ✓ Yes
Data Roaming Bolt-On Zone 2 (1 GB) 1 GB 30 days €10.76 4G ✓ Yes

Last verified: 4 August 2026

UK network India status Cost
EE Roaming Zone, daily pass ~£7.50/day (£37.50/week)
Three Around the World add-on ~£8/day (post Dec 2025)
Vodafone Rest of World pass ~£7.86/day
O2 Travel bolt-on, or free on Volt/Plus/Ultimate ~£7/day or £0
giffgaff No roaming outside Europe ~£100 / 1 GB
Lebara Included on some plans up to 10 GB free

The trap: the £7-a-day roaming that adds up

Do the maths before you fly. On EE, Three, Vodafone or O2, India costs roughly £7 to £8 a day in roaming. That is fine for a long weekend, but on a real India trip it stacks up fast: three weeks on EE is about £157.50, more than an unlimited Holafly eSIM for the same trip (around £55) that you install before you even leave Heathrow. The reflex: check your plan and your daily cost BEFORE you go, and if it is not on Lebara or a premium O2 plan, switch to an unlimited eSIM. And if you do not, turn off data roaming, or your phone latches on and syncs at full price (never at a good time, naturally).


So your UK plan covers India only at a daily price, and on most networks that price is steep. If you want unlimited data without watching a counter, on to the local SIM and the eSIM.

Jio, Airtel, Vi, BSNL: the Indian operators

The Indian market is built around four national operators, and the choice between them is not just about price: it is mostly about where you are going.

Jio is the giant that turned the market upside down, and our hero operator for a simple reason: it is the largest network in the country, all 4G and 5G, the cheapest, and the king of rural coverage. If you want the most gigabytes for the fewest rupees, this is the one. A data-first network, reliable in cities and deep countryside alike, it is the default for most trips.

Airtel, the premium challenger, is a touch pricier but often rated more stable and faster on the move: the one to favour on long-distance trains, motorways and the big circuits like the Golden Triangle or Rajasthan. Vi (born from the Vodafone and Idea merger) is the number three, fine in big cities but with coverage that fades fast once you leave the metros, so it suits a city-only stay. And BSNL, the state operator, is slow to roll out 4G and mediocre in town, but it is the mountain secret: in Ladakh and much of the Himalayas it is frequently the only network that works.

Before you weigh a local SIM against your plan or an eSIM, two tools to see clearly what each one is really worth.

Roaming

Use your UK plan abroad thanks to roaming agreements

Local SIM card

Buy a local SIM card to benefit from local rates

eSIM

Activate an eSIM before your departure, without changing your physical card

Pros and cons of SIM cards for India

Comparison of internet solutions while traveling
International plan Local SIM card eSIM
Cost High Low Moderate
Purchase Online (operator option) On-site, in-store Online, before departure
SIM card change No Yes No
Ease of use Easy Restrictive Easy
Support in English Yes Rarely Yes
Unlimited data No (limited) Yes Yes (depending on offer)
Keep your UK number Yes No (replaced) Yes (dual SIM)
Flexible stay durations No (monthly) Variable (commitment possible) Yes (1 to 90 days)
Top up the plan Operator customer area In-store Via the app
Risk of extra charges Yes Prepaid: no. Other: yes No

How much does a SIM card cost in India in August 2026?

Let’s get concrete. Mobile data in India is among the cheapest in the world, and that is genuinely a strong point for the local SIM: on price, there is nothing to complain about.

With Jio, the leader, budget around 349 rupees (about £3.30) for a plan with 2 GB a day for 28 days, unlimited calls included, the best gigs-per-rupee value in the country. Airtel is barely more (around 359 rupees for an equivalent plan), with that extra stability on the move. Vi plays the entry level (299 rupees for 1.5 GB a day). And BSNL undercuts everyone (around 187 rupees), best kept as a backup SIM for the mountains. At these prices, data is never the problem in India.

The real cost lies elsewhere. Avoid the airport counters: the same SIM is often sold dearer there, and activation can drag. Above all, buying a local SIM in India is nothing like a quick checkout: it is a whole administrative file, and that is what changes everything against an eSIM (more on that just below).

Price per GB is not the issue in India

A useful point: in India, unlike many destinations, the SIM-versus-eSIM debate is NOT about price. Local data is so cheap (about £3.30 a month with Jio) that no eSIM can match it per GB. The real trade-off is this: do you want to be online immediately and with no paperwork (eSIM or a UK roaming pass), or are you happy to fill in a form and wait 24 to 48 hours to pay for the cheapest data in the world (local SIM)? Keep that in mind, the whole guide turns on this question.


Here is an up-to-date snapshot of the SIM and eSIM plans available for India, with current packages and prices:

India: local SIM cards available for your stay

Jio

Local SIM eSIM available 4.5

The giant that turned the market upside down. India's largest all-4G/5G network, and by far the cheapest. King of rural coverage and the ultra-budget data choice: if you want the most gigabytes for the fewest rupees, Jio is it. A data-first network (no legacy 2G/3G), very reliable in cities and deep countryside alike.

Tourist Plan 2.5GB/jour 28 jours
70 GB 28 days Calls SMS 4G,5G
€4.70 (399 INR)
Buy: Aeroport, Jio Stores
More generous version at 2.5GB/day for heavy users (constant GPS, tethering, stories). Same network, unbeatable on price.

BSNL

Local SIM eSIM available 3.6

The historic state operator. Slow to roll out 4G, often mediocre in cities. But it's the mountain secret: in Ladakh (Leh, Nubra, Zanskar, Changthang) and much of the Himalayas, BSNL is frequently the ONLY network that works, sometimes the only one permitted on border roads. If your route climbs in altitude, a backup BSNL SIM can save the day.

Plan 2GB/jour 28 jours
56 GB 28 days Calls SMS 4G
€2.10 (187 INR)
Buy: BSNL Customer Service Centres
Very cheap: 2GB/day over 28 days. Mediocre in cities but often the only network in the high mountains (Ladakh, Himalayas). Worth a backup SIM if you're heading to altitude.

Vi (Vodafone Idea)

Local SIM eSIM available 4.0

Born from the Vodafone + Idea merger, it's the number three, financially struggling and therefore the weakest of the three networks. Fine in the big cities (Delhi, Mumbai, Bangalore), but coverage drops off fast once you leave the metros. Only worth it for a 100% urban stay, otherwise pick Jio or Airtel.

Plan 1.5GB/jour 28 jours
42 GB 28 days Calls SMS 4G
€3.35 (299 INR)
Buy: Vi Stores, kiosques agrees
Vi's entry plan: 1.5GB/day over 28 days, unlimited calls. Cheapest of the trio, but a network to use in cities only.

Airtel

Local SIM eSIM available 4.3

The premium challenger. A bit pricier than Jio, but often rated more stable and faster on the move: the operator to favour on long-distance trains, highways and the big tourist circuits (Golden Triangle, Rajasthan). Excellent 4G/5G in cities, strong reputation for real-world speed.

Plan 2GB/jour 28 jours
60 GB 28 days Calls SMS 4G,5G
€4.10 (359 INR)
Buy: Aeroport, Airtel Stores, kiosques agrees
Airtel's go-to plan: 2GB/day over 28 days, unlimited calls, 100 SMS/day. A notch above Jio on stability while travelling, for a few rupees more.
Carrier Plan Data Duration Price Network Buy
BSNL
Plan 2GB/jour 28 jours 56 GB 28 days €2.10
(187 INR)
4G BSNL Customer Service Centres
Vi (Vodafone Idea)
Plan 1.5GB/jour 28 jours 42 GB 28 days €3.35
(299 INR)
4G Vi Stores, kiosques agrees
Jio
Tourist Plan 2GB/jour 28 jours Reco 60 GB 28 days €3.90
(349 INR)
4G,5G Aeroport, Jio Stores, kiosq...
Airtel
Plan 2GB/jour 28 jours 60 GB 28 days €4.10
(359 INR)
4G,5G Aeroport, Airtel Stores, ki...
Jio
Tourist Plan 2.5GB/jour 28 jours 70 GB 28 days €4.70
(399 INR)
4G,5G Aeroport, Jio Stores

Last verified: 4 August 2026

Buy your SIM on arrival or in advance from the UK?

Three ways to sort your data for India, each with its own logic. Our straight-talking comparison.

You buy from home before you leave and activate just before boarding.

No shop to find, no file to fill in, no number to change, and above all no 24 to 48 hour wait. You receive the eSIM by email or QR code after purchase, install it, and you are connected the moment you land, before you even clear immigration. Compatible with virtually every smartphone since 2018 (iPhone XS and newer, Galaxy S20+, Pixel 3+). Unlimited data, and your UK number kept alongside.

Cost: around £21 for 7 days, £58 for 30 days. Code LAPLANETEDECARO for -5% off. For a trip combining India and another Asian country, go for a regional eSIM.

Worth it if: you want to leave the plane already online, you would rather never hand your passport over a counter, and peace of mind beats price per GB.

Holafly India: our honest recommendation

Let’s be direct. Step one, we will say it again: check your plan. If you are on Lebara or a premium O2 plan, you may need nothing. If you are not, paying £7 to £8 a day in roaming is a poor deal on a real trip.

So if you want unlimited data without watching a counter, or you simply want to avoid both the daily roaming bill and the local-SIM paperwork, our pick is the Holafly eSIM. Not because it is cheapest per GB (the local Jio SIM wins that round hands down), but because it is the most worry-free choice: nothing to buy on the ground, your UK number kept active, and zero red tape.

With Holafly:

  • you buy from your sofa in the UK before you leave
  • you activate just before boarding, in two taps
  • you arrive in India already connected, no shop to find and no file to fill in
  • no 24 to 48 hour wait, no photo or proof of address to provide
  • you keep your UK number active alongside so you stay reachable
  • unlimited data running on the major Indian networks

In the interest of honesty, we will say it too: Holafly’s unlimited data is comfortable but can be throttled beyond heavy daily use, and tethering is limited. One more transparency point: in the really remote high-altitude corners (parts of Ladakh), the underlying Indian network decides, and there a local BSNL SIM keeps a slight edge. For the Golden Triangle, Rajasthan, Kerala, Goa and the vast majority of trips, the Holafly eSIM works without a hitch.

Tap just below to activate your discount and land straight on the available India eSIM plans.

Holafly India promo code

Get -5% off your Holafly India eSIM with code LAPLANETEDECARO. Enter it directly on the Holafly checkout page before you confirm.


Network coverage in India: from the cities to Ladakh

India has a surprisingly good mobile network in the cities and on main routes, with solid 4G (often more reliable than the still-patchy 5G for Maps, WhatsApp and UPI payments). But it is a subcontinent, and the terrain changes everything: between the plains, the deserts, the lagoons and the Himalayas, it pays to know where it drops out.

Strong signal

  • Big cities (Delhi, Mumbai, Bangalore, Jaipur): 4G everywhere, 5G expanding, all operators.
  • Golden Triangle (Delhi, Agra, Jaipur): solid coverage, Jio and Airtel neck and neck.
  • Long-distance trains: generally fine, with Airtel often the most stable.
  • Major tourist sites: Taj Mahal, Rajasthan forts, Goa, all covered.

Where it struggles

  • Kerala backwaters: the signal drops in the middle of the lagoon, on the houseboat.
  • Rajasthan desert (Jaisalmer dunes): the network weakens far from towns.
  • Ladakh and the Himalayas (Leh, Nubra, Zanskar): often only BSNL gets through, just.
  • Border areas and high-altitude roads: coverage rare, sometimes restricted.


The trick for the ground

If your route climbs in altitude (Ladakh, Himalayan valleys) or drops into the desert and the backwaters, two reflexes: download your offline maps and bookings BEFORE you go, and your GPS will work without signal, and if you specifically target the high mountains, carry a local BSNL SIM as backup, it holds best up there. In the cities, the Golden Triangle and on main routes, any solution does the job.

The real hassle: the red tape of the tourist local SIM in India

Here we are, and this is the section that makes this guide different from the others. Everyone will tell you to grab a local SIM, data is dirt cheap, and everyone stops there. Except that in India, buying a prepaid SIM as a tourist is not a three-minute checkout: it is a genuine administrative process, and it is exactly what the price-per-GB comparisons quietly leave out.

What they actually ask for at the counter. To walk out with a Jio or Airtel card, prepare a file: your passport, your printed visa or e-visa, one or two passport photos, and proof of a local address, usually your hotel booking. The vendor fills in a form, sometimes takes a photo of you on the spot, and triggers a tele-verification (an automated call you must confirm). None of it is optional: it is mandated by Indian regulation, and a vendor who skips a step risks a lot.

And above all, the wait. Here is the point nobody highlights: your SIM is not active right away. Count 24 to 48 hours between buying and actually getting signal, sometimes more. So you land in Delhi, queue up, fill in your file, and walk away… still without internet, for a day or two. At Delhi airport, some travellers are even refused the sale for lack of a local reference. Not ideal when you need to book your first Uber or tell people back home you have arrived.

Why the eSIM changes the game. A travel eSIM or a UK roaming pass runs through a foreign operator: they skip this paperwork entirely. You install your eSIM calmly from your sofa in the UK, it activates on landing, and you are online before you have even collected your bags. No passport to hand over, no photo, no proof of address, no verification call, no day or two in limbo. It is the very same logic as your e-visa: you sort everything online before you fly, and you arrive relaxed. For anyone landing for a two or three week circuit, that is often what tips the balance, far more than the few pounds saved on data.


India SIM card and eSIM: your questions

Will my UK phone plan work in India?

Yes, but it will almost always cost you. India is outside the EU, so it is not in your free Europe roaming zone, and most UK networks bill it as a daily Rest of World pass: EE around £7.50 a day, Three around £8 a day (for plans taken out after December 2025), Vodafone around £7.86 a day, and O2 around £7 a day (or included free if you are on a Volt, Plus or Ultimate plan with the Travel Inclusive Zone). giffgaff has no roaming outside Europe at all (data is charged at 10p per MB, roughly £100 a GB), while Lebara includes India with up to 10 GB on some plans. Over a two or three week trip, those daily passes add up fast: three weeks on EE is about £157.50, more than an unlimited Holafly eSIM for the same trip. Always check your own plan before you fly.

Is India included in free roaming?

No. India sits well outside the EU and the EEA, so the 'roam like at home' rule that covers Spain or Greece does not apply. UK networks charge a daily pass (EE, Three, Vodafone, O2) or simply exclude India from any roaming (giffgaff outside Europe). The only exceptions worth knowing are O2's Travel Inclusive Zone on premium plans, and Lebara, which folds India into certain bundles. Everywhere else, you pay by the day, and on a long trip that quietly becomes the most expensive way to stay online.

Which Indian operator has the best coverage?

Jio for the coverage-to-price ratio, no contest. It is the largest network in the country, all 4G and 5G, the cheapest, and the king of rural coverage. Airtel edges ahead on stability while moving: it is the one to pick for long-distance trains and the big circuits (Golden Triangle, Rajasthan). Vi (formerly Vodafone Idea) is fine in cities but fades fast elsewhere. And BSNL, the state operator, is slow in town but often the ONLY network that works high in the Himalayas (Leh, Nubra, Zanskar). Our advice: Jio for most trips, a backup BSNL SIM if you head up to Ladakh.

Do I need a passport and visa to buy a local SIM in India? And how long does it take?

Yes, and this is the real friction of the country. For a prepaid Jio or Airtel SIM, the vendor asks for your passport, your printed visa or e-visa, one or two passport photos, and proof of a local address (your hotel booking). There is usually a tele-verification call to complete, and activation typically takes 24 to 48 hours, sometimes longer. At Delhi airport, some travellers are even refused a SIM for lack of a local reference. In short, you are not online the minute you land. That whole process is exactly what a travel eSIM skips: you are already connected before you even clear immigration.

How much does a prepaid SIM card cost in India?

Very little, India has some of the cheapest mobile data in the world. In an official shop, budget around 349 rupees (about £3.30) for a Jio plan with 2 GB a day for 28 days, unlimited calls included. Airtel is barely more (around 359 rupees), Vi a little less (299 rupees for 1.5 GB a day), and BSNL undercuts them all (about 187 rupees). Watch for inflated airport-counter prices and the slow activation. The true cost of a local SIM in India is not the money, it is the time and the paperwork.

Does Holafly cover the whole of India?

Yes. The Holafly India eSIM is unlimited data and runs on the major local networks, so coverage follows the big operators: excellent in cities, on tourist sites and main routes. You buy and install it from home before you go, it activates on arrival, and your UK number stays active alongside. Budget around £21 for 7 days and £58 for 30 days. One honest caveat: in the really remote high-altitude corners (parts of Ladakh), the underlying Indian network decides, and there a local BSNL SIM keeps an edge. For the Golden Triangle, Rajasthan, Kerala and the vast majority of itineraries, it works without a hitch. Use code LAPLANETEDECARO for your discount.

eSIM or local SIM for a trip to India?

For most UK travellers, the eSIM wins on convenience. The Holafly India eSIM means: buy from home, activate before boarding, keep your UK number, unlimited data, and above all no paperwork and no 48-hour wait. A local Indian SIM (Jio in front) only makes sense for a long stay, for a local number, or if you specifically want the cheapest data per GB and the paperwork does not bother you. For a two or three week circuit, the eSIM wins on peace of mind; for a month or more, the local SIM wins on price. Code LAPLANETEDECARO on Holafly.

Will my eSIM work in Ladakh and the Kerala backwaters?

Not everywhere, and this is the detail guides skip. In cities, on main routes and major trains, you are fine. But on the Kerala backwaters the signal drops in the middle of the lagoon; in the Rajasthan desert dunes it weakens; and above all in Ladakh and the high Himalayas (Leh, Nubra, Zanskar), many networks simply do not reach, with BSNL frequently the only one that works and is permitted. If your route climbs in altitude, carry a local BSNL SIM alongside your eSIM, and download offline maps before you go. No plan can catch a network that is not there.

Going further: our other SIM card guides by destination

If India is part of a bigger Asian trip, or you are already planning your next destination, we have written detailed guides with the same method and the same rigour on prices, coverage and local pitfalls.

Conclusion: what we honestly recommend

If we had to sum it up in one line: start by checking your plan, because India is outside the EU and most UK networks will charge you £7 to £8 a day. Unless you are on Lebara or a premium O2 plan, the best travel option is the Holafly eSIM with code LAPLANETEDECARO for -5% off: unlimited, activated from home, UK number kept, and above all no paperwork and no 48-hour wait.

The local Indian SIM is worth it for a long stay, a local number, or if you chase the cheapest data in the world and the admin does not scare you: in that case it is Jio for the coverage-to-price ratio, Airtel if you move a lot by train, and a backup BSNL SIM if you head up to Ladakh. But accept the counter, the file, and a day or two of waiting before you are online.

The one mistake to avoid is choosing on price per GB alone, forgetting that the real currency in India is time and peace of mind. Data there is dirt cheap; it is the paperwork and the coverage at altitude that make the difference. Know where your route takes you (easy cities or wild heights), and the right choice becomes obvious.

If there is a question we have not covered, drop it in the comments, we take the time to reply. And if you come back from India with a good connectivity tip (or a memory of two days waiting for your SIM to activate), share it, everyone benefits.

Safe travels in India (and save a bit of battery for sunrise over the Taj Mahal, no story will ever do it justice).

PS: the little rule we apply everywhere and which counts double for India: check your country list and daily roaming cost BEFORE you go, install your eSIM before the flight so you do not lose two days at the counter, and download your train tickets and offline maps before you head off to Ladakh. Three reflexes, and you enjoy the subcontinent instead of queuing.