There are restaurants we choose for the menu, and others we choose for the people behind it. Coisa Linda, for me, is a bit of both, and that’s probably why we always end up going back (even though in Tavira, believe me, there are plenty of good addresses). This time, the occasion was a bit special: a Mother’s Day lunch with Xavier’s mom, on one of those late May days when the Algarve is already starting to heat up for real. And honestly, that day sums up quite well everything that brings us back here, meal after meal.
Crossing the Rio Gilão to change the atmosphere
Coisa Linda is located on the other side of the Rio Gilão. Nothing complicated, we cross the bridge in two minutes (to be honest, it’s quite easy), but it’s enough to get away a bit from the hustle and bustle of downtown Tavira (which remains the most beautiful town in the Algarve for us, but we’ve already talked about that elsewhere) to reach a slightly more laid-back, quieter spot. The house has real charm, with its multiple levels, garden, and different spaces depending on the season.. On sunny days, we settle on the teak terrace, under the pergola. That day, the late May heat was just right, softened by a little breeze, we started with a sparkling drink and a raspberry inside, and there you go, the meal could settle in peacefully (just thinking about it makes me thirsty).
Bruno and Chris, the soul of the house
But let’s be clear, what really gives the place its soul is Bruno and Chris. Bruno is French, Chris is Brazilian, and it’s even through Bruno that Chris learned French (which leads to some pretty tasty conversations, I’ll let you imagine). So, when we show up as French speakers, we immediately feel at home. The exchanges are natural, and over the visits, it goes far beyond the simple client-restaurant relationship. And their cuisine, well, it reflects their journey: nourished by their travels, by all the countries they’ve been through. It’s a menu open to the world, and frankly, it’s exactly what we came looking for.
Mezze that travels to start
We started with a shared starter because it’s definitely more fun to pick from the same dish. And here, it was a journey in every direction: Indian piadjules, a specialty from Bangladesh, Brazilian tapioca dadinhos, pork gyozas, and a sun-dried tomato hummus.. (yes, I had to check the spelling of half of them, don’t judge me). The only real test, the one that matters: no one fought for the last piece. And for good reason, everyone already had their favorite. Caroline had hers, Xavier had his, and his mom had hers too. When three people point to three different bites as their favorite, I personally think that’s a pretty good sign for the cuisine.
The dishes, each their own path
For the next course, everyone went in their own direction. Caroline, who usually never lets go of her salmon salad (with her slightly spicy sauce, her thing), decided to change things up for once. With Xavier’s mom, they opted for a generous beef carpaccio.. so generous that they struggled to finish the plate. A nice surprise nonetheless. Xavier, on the other hand, didn’t even pretend to hesitate: his pork ribs, as always (the audacity, I know). A plate that fills you up well, and here that’s important because the generosity of the portions is clearly part of the pleasure.
The end of the meal, and the eternal debate
And even after all that, there was still a little room for dessert (there’s always room for one, it’s physiological). Xavier had the bolo de leite, a cake with cream made from milk and a scoop of vanilla ice cream. Caroline couldn’t resist a crumble with apples, the kind of comforting dish. And that’s where THE debate comes in, the one that comes up every time: “wasn’t it maybe a bit too sweet?” It has become a real recurring joke with Bruno and Chris, a complicity that has developed over the years. The kind of running gag that makes you feel a bit at home.
And then lunch took a turn (in a good way)
In the middle of the meal, a guitar and singing duo showed up on the terrace. Immediate friendly atmosphere, international repertoire, and even a few French songs along the way (let’s just say the French speakers at the table appreciated the gesture). And then.. the big mistake. Xavier found himself invited to the mic for “Pour que tu m’aimes encore.” Yes, Céline Dion. In front of absolutely everyone. I’ll let you imagine the embarrassment, the laughter around the table, and poor Xavier wondering internally how he ended up there (spoiler: that memory will probably last longer than half of the dishes).
Who we recommend Coisa Linda to
Well, let’s be honest for a minute. If you’re looking for classic Portuguese grilled dishes or fish just placed on a plate, this is probably not the place to come.. you’ll find traditional local cuisine elsewhere (and very well, by the way). However, for curious palates, it’s a real playground: Eastern flavors, Indian touches, South American inspirations, a mixed and totally embraced cuisine. The audience is mostly adult, although families are always welcome. Let’s say it’s mainly a place for those who like to take their time.. and we, taking our time, we know how to do that.
Practical information
P.S.: If one day you pass by and Bruno whispers to you that a dessert is “maybe a bit too sweet,” know that you have officially joined the house joke.. and that somewhere, Céline Dion is watching over you.