- Capital of the Isle of Skye, about 2,500 inhabitants
- Gaelic name: Port-an-Rìgh, “Port of the King”
- Access: Free Skye Bridge or Mallaig-Armadale ferry
- Iconic photo spot: colorful houses on Quay Street
- Bonus: award-winning Misty Isle gin from the Scottish Gin Awards
- Best time: May-June or September-October (not July-August)
Portree on a road trip: interactive map and access
So, Portree is the must-visit meeting point when you arrive on the Isle of Skye. The nerve center, the only place with a Co-op, a couple of restaurants worth the detour, and an award-winning gin distillery. For us, after a few days struggling elsewhere on the island (the Fairy Pools under the crowd, Caroline in hypothermia after her dip in the freezing water, and a sleeping spot found at 10 PM by the national road…), Portree felt like a warm shower after a hike in the rain. (To put it in context, that means a lot.)
Before diving into the details, we prepared an interactive map with the 20 spots we tested or spotted: the restaurants in the center, the campsites around, the viewpoints of Skye, the gin distillery, and even the gas station (because it remains complicated to refuel on the island). Click on the markers, it will give you our opinions and GPS coordinates.
Highland : Places we can tell you about
Here's our selection of places in Highland: spots we've visited that might be useful to you. Use the list view to discover each address in detail, and export everything to add to Google Maps or your favorite GPS app.
| Place | Address | Download |
|---|---|---|
| The Granary | Somerled Square, Portree IV51 9EH | |
| Harbour View | 7 Bosville Terrace, Portree IV51 9DG | |
| Scorrybreac Restaurant | 7 Bosville Terrace, Portree IV51 9DG | |
| Cuchullin Restaurant | Somerled Square, Portree IV51 9EH | |
| The Bosville Hotel Restaurant | 9-11 Bosville Terrace, Portree IV51 9DG |
| Place | Address | Download |
|---|---|---|
| Fairy Glen Campground | Uig, Isle of Skye IV51 9XX | |
| Skeabost Bay Spot | Skeabost Bridge, Isle of Skye IV51 9NP | |
| Sligachan Campsite | Sligachan, Isle of Skye IV51 9JZ | |
| Portree Bay Camping | Home Farm Rd, Portree IV51 9LX | |
| Staffin Campsite | Staffin, Isle of Skye IV51 9JX |
| Place | Address | Download |
|---|---|---|
| Skye Museum of Island Life | Kilmuir, Portree IV51 9UE | |
| Aros Centre | Viewfield Rd, Portree IV51 9EU |
| Place | Address | Download |
|---|---|---|
| Portree Harbour | Quay St, Portree IV51 9DE | |
| Old Man of Storr | A87, Portree IV51 9HX | |
| Fairy Glen | Uig, Isle of Skye IV51 9XX | |
| Mealt Falls (Kilt Rock) | A87, Staffin IV51 9JE |
| Place | Address | Download |
|---|---|---|
| Saint-Columba Church | Somerled Square, Portree IV51 9EH |
| Place | Address | Download |
|---|---|---|
| Isle of Skye Distillers | The Gin School, Portree IV51 9EH | |
| Wentworth Souvenir Shop | Wentworth St, Portree IV51 9EJ |
| Place | Address | Download |
|---|---|---|
| BP Portree Gas Station | Dunvegan Rd, Portree IV51 9PZ |
Highland : a glimpse of the weather
5-day forecast
Planning an unexpected departure? Check out the weekly weather before packing your bags.
Monthly climate
Weather-wise, our heart leans towards bright sunshine. That said, you might have different criteria for choosing when to visit.
| Month | Min temp | Max temp | Rain | Weather | Rating |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| June | 10°C | 16°C | 180 mm | 🌧️ | |
| July | 13°C | 18°C | 126 mm | 🌧️ | |
| August | 12°C | 17°C | 152 mm | 🌧️ | |
| September | 10°C | 15°C | 173 mm | 🌧️ | |
| October | 9°C | 12°C | 246 mm | 🌧️ | |
| November | 5°C | 9°C | 202 mm | 🌧️ | |
| December | 4°C | 8°C | 223 mm | 🌧️ | |
| January | 2°C | 6°C | 135 mm | 🌧️ | |
| February | 3°C | 7°C | 119 mm | 🌧️ | |
| March | 4°C | 9°C | 209 mm | 🌧️ | |
| April | 5°C | 12°C | 152 mm | 🌧️ | |
| May | 7°C | 13°C | 117 mm | 🌧️ |
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To access the island, there are two options. The Skye Bridge from Kyle of Lochalsh, free since 2004 (toll removed after a long fight by the islanders against the original fee), accessible 24/7 without reservation: this is the default option for campervans. Expect about 1.5 hours of driving between the bridge and Portree via the A87. The other option, more picturesque, is the CalMac Mallaig-Armadale ferry in the southeast of Skye, followed by an hour’s drive to Portree. It’s prettier but reservation is essential in summer, and additional budget (expect £60-90 per campervan depending on length). Coming from the south of Scotland (Edinburgh, Glasgow), plan for 7-8 hours of driving, making the necessary stops in the Cairngorms, at Loch Ness, or in Inverness.
The colorful houses of Quay Street: the visual signature of Portree
It’s the image we all have in mind when saying “Portree”: this row of small houses with colorful pink, blue, and green facades that descends along the harbor. The Pink House in the foreground is the iconic building, but in reality, it’s the complete alignment that makes the postcard photo. We had seen a thousand versions on Instagram before arriving, expecting something reconstructed for tourists… and actually, no. These are real houses inhabited by families, with cats on the windowsills, laundry drying in the back. The color is not a recent marketing gimmick: it’s a Scottish port tradition to recognize one’s house from the sea. (Well, that didn’t stop us from taking 47 photos like typical French tourists, though.)
The little photo tip we give you: aim for the end of the afternoon, between 5 PM and 7 PM depending on the season. The light from the setting sun hits the facades directly (the quay is oriented east-west), and the colors become vibrant instead of being washed out by the Scottish gray sky. Ideal photographer position: on the quay across, not directly in front of the houses. If you go in the middle of the day at noon, you’ll end up with flat photos, lacking contrast, and probably with a tour bus in the background. In the late afternoon, the buses have returned to their hotels in Edinburgh.
Beyond Quay Street, we enjoyed strolling through Wentworth Street and Bank Street, the little shopping streets in the center, with their slightly kitschy but nice souvenir shops: fairy figurines (a nod to the nearby Fairy Glen), miniature Highland cows, tartan scarves, magnets… We splurged on a few trinkets to bring back.
The fishing port and fish and chips by the water
The port of Portree is what immediately appealed to us upon arrival. Not a yacht, not a varnished teak sun deck: just small fishing boats, nets being repaired, the smell of fish coming from the morning catches. (The kind of smell that bothers some tourists and makes us feel at home.) “Compatible with us,” is what we said upon arriving. We prefer this kind of authentic port a thousand times over to the polished marinas of southern France.
The classic gastronomic dish of the port is of course the fish and chips to take away. We got one, which we ate sitting on the quay, feet dangling, facing the boats. The fish is ultra-fresh (makes sense, it comes right next door), the batter is crispy. A little anecdote: we refused the malt vinegar they offer as a side, and it was a good call. The server puts massive amounts on the locals’ portions, really huge. If we had said yes out of politeness, we would have ended up with vinegar chips bon appétit, and no more fish and chips. Practical advice: ask for the vinegar on the side if you want to try it, or simply refuse if you’re used to it dry or with French mayo.
For a sit-down meal, Portree has a few good addresses that we spotted or tried:
- Scorrybreac Restaurant (7 Bosville Terrace): modern cuisine, local products, view of the harbor, reservation recommended especially in summer
- The Granary (Somerled Square): authentic Scottish cuisine with a modern twist, bistro atmosphere, about 4.5/5 from local reviews
- Cuchullin Restaurant (Somerled Square): affordable gastro, more relaxed atmosphere
- The Bosville Hotel Restaurant (Bosville Terrace): a bit more upscale, harbor view
- Harbour View (Bosville Terrace): popular alternative with sea view
And if you head towards Skeabost Bay to the northwest (12 km), make a detour by the restaurant of the Skeabost House Hotel: local products, peaceful atmosphere in the heart of Scottish nature, perfect for a romantic dinner away from the tourist center.
Gin Misty Isle and shops: the distillery that surprises
Well, we didn’t see this coming: Portree is home to an award-winning gin distillery at the Scottish Gin Awards. Isle of Skye Distillers (The Gin School, right in the center of Portree) produces Misty Isle Gin, which just won an award that year. We entered out of curiosity (we’re always looking for local producers to meet on our road trips), and we came out with a bottle. (And we sipped it for the rest of our Scottish stay, it was an excellent idea.)
Misty Isle is a botanical gin, infused with local Skye plants: heather, juniper berries, citrus. Not a classic London Dry, but rather a rounder, more fragrant gin. The distillery offers tours with tasting by reservation (to be booked in advance via their website, they have limited slots and it fills up quickly in summer). We didn’t have time for the full tour, but the shop on-site is worth a visit, even if you’re not a gin lover: the packaging is pretty (great gift idea to bring back to France at -10%), and the team is chatty and passionate. Expect to pay £35-45 for a bottle depending on the editions.
On the more general shopping side, Wentworth Street is the main shopping street with its typical souvenir shops. We splurged on a few fairy figurines (because the local mythology revolves around fairy folks, and it’s the only place where it’s not cheesy to bring some back) and mini Highland cows plushies. Reasonable prices for Skye, which remains generally expensive.
What to see around Portree on the Isle of Skye
Portree is the ideal base to explore Skye. Most of the iconic spots on the island are within 50 km, so once settled in Portree (or in a campsite nearby), you can take day trips without having to move the van each time.
Old Man of Storr (15 km north): THE iconic rocky peak of Skye, a popular 4 km round trip hike, elevation gain of 400 m, expect 2-2.5 hours. Accessible photo spot also from the A855 without climbing. Crowded in summer during tourist hours (10 am-5 pm), prefer early morning (before 9 am) or evening.
Mealt Falls and Kilt Rock (25 km north): 60 m basalt cliff with a waterfall that flows directly into the North Sea. Viewing platform set up from a parking lot on the A855, no walking required. Small downside: we passed by during a Scottish summer drought, and the famous waterfall had lost some of its charm (of course, without water…).
Fairy Glen near Uig (30 km northwest): “Valley of the fairies,” a landscape of strange pyramid-shaped mounds (resulting from landslides, but legend attributes this to the fairies). Quieter than the Fairy Pools in terms of crowds, easy walk of 1-1.5 hours. We found a little hidden corner by straying from the marked paths, with just the sound of water, a perfect moment.
Skye Museum of Island Life (45 km north): crofter village museum, immersion in traditional Scottish life, perfect on a rainy day.
Fairy Pools in the Black Cuillin (50 km southwest, Glenbrittle): natural meltwater pools, short hike of 20-30 minutes from the parking lot. Honestly, we were disappointed: crowded, mud created by foot traffic, magic gone. Beautiful geological site, yes, but to be avoided in high season. Prefer early morning (before 8 am) or off-season.
Sligachan Bridge (20 km south): old stone bridge facing the Black Cuillin, classic photo spot with mountains in the background.
Talisker Distillery (60 km west): iconic single malt whisky from Skye, tours + tasting, around £25.
Dunvegan Castle (40 km west): inhabited castle since the 13th century by the MacLeod clan, gardens, starting point for seal watching boat trips.
Coral Beach (45 km northwest of Dunvegan): crushed white coral beach, unusual landscape, 30-minute walk from the parking lot.
Where to sleep in Portree and around in a campervan
On Skye, the topic of “where to sleep in a van” requires a bit of preparation. Wild camping is technically allowed in Scotland under the Scottish Outdoor Access Code, but with specific rules and a tourist saturation that has led local authorities to impose restrictions on certain spots. The safest option is to go to an official campsite, especially in summer.
- Portree Bay Camping (Home Farm Rd): 15 minutes walk from the center, full services, around £25-35 per night. Convenient for exploring Portree on foot.
- Fairy Glen Campground (Uig, 30 km north): nature setting at the foot of the hills, quiet, perfect before the ferry to Harris. Caroline loved this spot when we came across it again.
- Skeabost Bay Spot (12 km northwest): less equipped but wilder overnight parking area.
- Sligachan Campsite (20 km south): ideal if you’re coming from the Skye Bridge or heading back towards the Fairy Pools.
- Staffin Campsite (35 km north): on the east coast of Trotternish, sea view.
For a night or two in a hotel because the Scottish weather got to you:
- The Bosville Hotel: on Bosville Terrace facing the harbor, good mid-range address
- Cuillin Hills Hotel: a bit elevated, panoramic view of the harbor and bay
- Portree Hotel: on Somerled Square, right in the pedestrian center
And the golden advice for daytime parking: Bayfield Road parking, free, 10 minutes walk from the harbor. The short-term parking in the center is saturated in summer and timed. Avoid parking in the narrow streets of Quay Street, you would block the traffic of locals who need to work.
Practical tips for road trips and vanlife in Portree
To wrap up the topic, here are a few practical tips we wish we had before arriving:
Honestly, avoid July and August. The island has become a tourist pilgrimage site and the iconic spots turn into muddy puddles. Prefer May-June (bearable temperatures, beautiful light, moderate crowds) or September-October (autumn colors, mystical mist, reduced crowds). And if you don’t mind the cold: Skye in winter = Scotland’s best-kept secret. Mystical scenery, locals available, prices halved.
Grocery shopping: the Co-op Food on Bayfield Road is the main supermarket in Portree, open 7 days a week, with a decent fresh produce section. It’s the last proper supermarket before heading up towards Uig or Staffin. For fine grocery and fresh fish lovers, head to The Anchorage Restaurant which also has a grocery section. Important for vans: stock up on supplies in Portree, you won’t find anything equivalent further north.
Internet and mobile network: it’s a disaster on Skye, especially as you move away from Portree. None of our UK SIM cards had coverage on the island. If you’re working remotely or plan to use GPS, get a UK eSIM before you arrive. We use Holafly in such cases, their UK eSIM saved our lives on Skye and the Outer Hebrides. Promo code LAPLANETEDECARO for -5% off on their site.
Fuel: BP Portree Station on Dunvegan Rd, the main one in town, open 7 days a week. It’s the last real station before Uig (40 km north) and before heading up towards Staffin (35 km northeast). Fill up when you pass through Portree, especially in high season.
FAQ Portree on a road trip
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Where to sleep in Portree and around in a campervan?
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Read moreIf you enjoyed Portree, don’t miss our Wick road trip and van guide (the northeast tip of mainland Scotland, featuring the Old Pulteney distillery and an excellent French restaurant by the harbor), and our John o’Groats stop which perfectly complements a tour of the NC500. If you’re heading back after Portree via the Uig ferry, read our passage on the Isle of Harris: Caribbean-like paradise beaches, and the touching story of our encounter with Willy.