Overview of the Highland Games field in Scotland with hammer throw

Attending the Highland Games in Scotland: the guide

Xavier 17 min
Overview of the Highland Games field in Scotland with hammer throw
In two sentences: the Highland Games are the grand Scottish sports and cultural festival that takes place every summer in dozens of villages and towns (from May to September, over sixty gatherings). Log throwing, bagpipes, traditional dances, clan parades in kilts and tartan: we came on a vanlife road trip to Ballater on August 11th, and we didn’t regret it.

Why the Highland Games are worth the detour when crossing Scotland

Well, let’s be clear: if you’re planning a road trip in Scotland during the summer and you come across the dates of the Highland Games in a village, make sure to attend, you won’t regret it. It’s one of those days where, when you go out in the evening, your head is buzzing (a bit too much in our case, we’ll get back to that), your notebook is full of notes, and you feel like you’ve really touched what makes Scotland… well, Scottish.

Caroline and I experienced the Highland Games on August 11th in Ballater, a small village in Aberdeenshire in the Dee Valley. We arrived three days earlier with Édouard (our trusty Hymer B544), parked the van facing the church (ample parking, public toilets, a gift for an event weekend), and enjoyed the setup. And well, we loved it so much that we decided to dedicate an entire article to it, because beyond the tourist folklore, it’s a real human experience.

Pipe band in kilts at the Highland Games

What exactly are the Highland Games?

Originally, these are sports and cultural competitions organized by clans to celebrate Scotland’s Celtic culture. Not to be confused with a simple folk festival for tourists: the Highland Games are a true Scottish institution, vibrant, codified, that gathers over sixty events across the country every summer (from May to September, peaking in July and August).

There are several major categories of events… the caber toss (the famous log toss), weight and hammer throw, traditional dance competitions (often performed by children, particularly little girls), a simultaneous bagpipe competition, and a whole day of parades punctuated by drums and clan fanfares. It’s also an economic showcase: honey, wood, whisky producers all have their little stands away from the main field.

Good to know. The Highland Games are primarily a family celebration. Many stands for children, lots of games, many rides. It’s far from solemn folklore; it’s more like an Intervilles version of “Clash of Clans,” as we said upon arrival, with teams representing different clans competing all day long.

Shot put competition at the Highland Games in Scotland

Our morning on D-Day in Ballater: the bagpipes tuning in the distance

It’s funny how some memories stick with you. On the morning of D-Day, we had breakfast in Édouard with the sound of bagpipes tuning in the distance. One note held, then another, then three, then a chord that gently settles. You understand why this instrument is associated with Scotland: it really has something that grips you when you hear it linger in the air on an August morning in the hills.

The kickoff is around 11:30 AM, but everything starts well before that. The whole village gradually wakes up, people converge towards the center, and there… surprise. Everyone sets off together. A collective, organized procession that walks from the village to the park where all the games will take place. Bagpipers in front, drums behind, and the crowd following. We’re no longer in a village; we’re in a parade.

“Why not? I seem too old?” : the encounter that sums it all up

On our way to the park, we were taken under the wing of a local lady who offered us a shortcut. She said, “you follow me, I go this way as well.” Caroline and I followed her. I kindly told her, in broken English, to try not to walk too fast (we were already loaded with video gear, in full sun, with big backpacks). Her immediate, witty response: “Why not? I seem too old?” Huge. Everyone burst out laughing. We got a lesson in Scottish humor on the fly, and we understood in two minutes the warmth of the locals we would meet all day.

Piper parade in front of a Scottish pub in Ballater during the Highland Games

The atmosphere on site: between funfair and codified competition

When we arrive at the field, the first mandatory step: the ticket queue. Under a blazing sun. Without a cloud. That day, we realized that yes, you can get serious sunburns deep in Scotland (spoiler: we ended up red, burned, buying sunscreen on our way back to the village in the evening). Well, we wait, enjoy, and observe the locals arriving in line too, many in kilts, many in tartan, some with matching hairstyles.

Once inside, we discover a site that resembles… a mix between a funfair and a sports field. On one side, stands for eating, drinking, rides, games for children (a lot, in fact, it’s very family-oriented). On the other, the main field where events take place all day long. And further away, on the sidelines, the small artisan stands run by the different clans.

Pipe band parade in kilts at the Highland Games in Scotland
Group of bagpipers in traditional Scottish clan kilts

The star events of the Highland Games

The caber toss

It’s the emblematic event. A stripped pine log about 5.5 meters long and weighing 80 kilograms. The competitor lifts it vertically, holds it for what seems like a quarter of an hour, runs a few meters, and throws it trying to make it complete a full rotation in the air. And there, surprise for the novice: it’s not judged by distance, but by the alignment of the fall. A successful caber toss falls at 12 o’clock, perfectly aligned with the thrower. Caroline watched, fascinated, and asked me, “but why are they happy when it falls right in front of them?” Not so simple to understand when you first discover it.

Log throwing competition at the Highland Games in Ballater
Man in kilt throws a log at the Highland Games
Athlete in a kilt throws a log during an event at the Highland Games

The weight throw, hammer throw, and “toilet plunger”

Several other throwing events follow. The weight, a classic (a large metal ball). The Scottish hammer, more spectacular (a ball on the end of a chain). And then what I dubbed on-site “the toilet plunger throw,” because it looked strikingly similar: a stick with a large ball at the end, the competitor spins around to gain momentum, and throws it as far as possible. The guy we were watching, I wouldn’t have dared to say anything bad about his mom, he must have weighed 120 kilos.

Scottish traditional dances (with little girls)

While the strength events take place in the center of the field, in one corner… there are dances. And here, we are surprised: it’s little girls dancing, not big bearded men. The Highland Fling (a dance in place, precise jumps), the Sword Dance (over two crossed swords placed on the ground), and several other coded choreographies. Caroline thought they “danced a bit like crabs,” with a surprising rhythm when you discover it. I was waiting for the moment when it would change (the girls would go throw logs, the guys would dance to the bagpipes), but it never happened. Not that year, at least.

The bagpipe competition, in parallel

And then in a quieter corner of the site, a continuous bagpipe competition. Young people take turns in front of a jury. We see one, focused, in full practice. This is the most subdued atmosphere of the day, and we stop for a few minutes to catch our breath between two strength events.

Tug of war and sack race

Two other classics: the tug of war, where two teams sweat it out to pull the opponent down; and the sack race… which is only for children, and it’s too cute to watch. All day long the events follow one another, in every corner of the site, and the band passes several times to set the tempo.

Scottish bagpiper in traditional costume at the Ballater Highland Games
Bagpiper in kilt in full competition at the Highland Games
Parade of bagpipers in traditional Scottish attire at the Highland Games

Clan stands: honey, wood, whisky, craftsmanship

This is probably the part we underestimated upon arrival, and which turned out to be the most enriching. Around the main field, the different clans each hold a small stand to showcase their local craftsmanship. Honey producers, wood producers, whisky producers (and yes, in great variety, because we are in Scotland), tartan crafts (scarves, cushions, decorative items), miniatures.

And this is where we realize that the Highland Games are not just a sporting competition: it’s also an economic and cultural showcase for each clan/community. People come to win, of course, but also to show what they can do every day. We chatted with two or three producers, tasted local honey, and talked about tartans with a very patient gentleman who explained the differences between the clan colors. Caroline fell for a tartan scarf, not the Burberry scarf, mind you, the real one. Perfect souvenir.

Souvenir advice. If you want an authentic souvenir, you’ll find it at the clan stands, not at the “tourist” stand at the entrance. An official tartan from a clan, a local handcrafted product (honey, whisky), is worth much more than an imported trinket. You come back with something that has a story, which you can tell your friends upon return.

Musicians in traditional Scottish attire play the drum at the Highland Games

Eating on-site: the big Black Angus disappointment

Well, let’s be frank. Stomach growling mid-morning, we look for something to eat. On-site, a meat stand seems to offer THE specialty of the day: the Black Angus Steak & Cheese Burger. We order two (yes, because we are greedy, and Scotland has a reputation for good meat). Verdict: not good. Really not good. We were disappointed. And the worst part (the original audio of our video was unusable due to wind and background noise, we ended up commenting in voice-over during editing), is that this would be our only Black Angus experience for the entire stay in Scotland. No point in insisting, we settled under the drinks tent with a small beer, and our spirits immediately lifted.

Our food advice. At the meat stands on-site, it’s not guaranteed. Better to aim for the fish and chips stands or local options (haggis, neeps and tatties, Cullen Skink soup if available), and save room for dinner in town (the pubs open well after the Games, and that’s where you eat real Scottish cuisine). In Ballater, we had a great dinner in town that evening, but that’s another story.

The third half in town: three bagpipe bands in the streets

Well, at the end of the day, the field starts to empty. The clans pack up their stands, the competitors put away their gear, and we head back to town for the “third half” as the locals call it. And there… another surprise. Instead of ending quietly with a pint at the pub, we witness three different groups of pipers and drummers parading one after the other in the streets of Ballater. Probably the different clans doing their victory lap in town.

Caroline, round as an egg after two pints and the sun doing its work, says, “Metallica bagpipes… Macarena bagpipe… come on, listen to him honestly.” I don’t know them, I don’t have their CD, they’re on Spotify. A little running gag between us, which we kept for the video.

Honestly, it’s this moment that truly wraps up the day. Not the last event on the field, but this late parade where the whole village comes out on their doorstep with a drink in hand to greet the passing bagpipes. We’re there. We understand why the Scots cherish their Games.

Caroline sitting on the lawn watches the crowd at the Highland Games in Ballater.

The clans and their tartans: Campbell, MacDonald, Stewart, MacGregor

Finale of the Highland Games (and cultural summary for those interested): the different clans parading in their respective kilts and tartans. Among the most famous: Campbell, MacDonald, Stewart, MacGregor. Each has its own tartan pattern, colors, history, and historical territory in the Highlands. Tartans are not just for dressing: they can be found on scarves, cushions, and a whole range of handcrafted items that can be brought back as souvenirs.

A bit of history to understand why the tartan is so symbolically charged. After the Jacobite defeat at Culloden in 1746, wearing the kilt and playing the bagpipes was banned by the laws of proscription, with the idea of crushing the Gaelic identity of the Highlanders. For several decades, wearing these clothes became an act of resistance. When the laws were eventually lifted and the 19th century restored a central place to Scottish identity (with a serious boost from Queen Victoria who loved the Highlands), the kilt and tartan became both a national symbol and a marker of belonging to a clan. Today, the Highland Games are one of the few places where this culture is still visibly alive, not in a museum.

Old man in traditional Scottish kilt at the Highland Games field

Where do the Highland Games really come from?

The tradition dates back a long way. Legend attributes their creation to King Malcolm III in the 11th century, who supposedly organized a race on the slopes of Craig Choinnich, near Braemar, to select the best messengers of his kingdom. It’s probably more complex than that historically, but the root is there: very ancient, linked to clans, the Highlands, and contests of strength and speed among members of the same community.

The modern Games, on the other hand, were mainly codified in the 19th century. Queen Victoria, who spent her summers at Balmoral just next to Ballater (and at Braemar for the Games), greatly contributed to popularizing them by attending the Braemar Games every year since 1848. Her royal endorsement made the Highland Games a fashionable event, and every small town began to organize its own.

Today, the Highland Games are:

  • a serious sports competition (with a real national association, the Scottish Highland Games Association, that standardizes the events);
  • a cultural festival (traditional dance, bagpipe, and drumming competitions);
  • a means of transmitting the Gaelic identity of the Highlands and the clans, which otherwise might have become purely folkloric.

People come for both the events and the rest, and it’s precisely this depth that makes the experience so memorable.

Which Highland Games to choose for your road trip?


Our choice. A small village in the Dee valley, family atmosphere, warm welcome, parking in front of the Church that accommodates motorhomes for several nights with public toilets on site. The size of the Games is medium, allowing you to see everything in one day without rushing, and to really feel the atmosphere of the clan stands. The proximity to Balmoral (10 minutes by car) is a bonus if you want to make a detour to the castle.

Verdict: ideal for a first Highland Games on a vanlife road trip, accessible atmosphere, simple logistics.

Road trip and vanlife tips for the Highland Games

And here is our checklist after our experience in Ballater, to be adapted according to the chosen event:

  • Book your weekend. Arrive the day before (or two days before) to enjoy the village and the setup, experience the Games on Saturday, stay another night for the third half-time in town. Dedicated motorhome parking fills up quickly, don’t wait until Friday evening.
  • Sunscreen AND waterproof jacket. Yes, both. Volatile Scottish weather, outdoor day, you can get serious sunburn (experienced) or get drenched in 10 minutes. Multiple layers, hat, sunglasses.
  • Water and large bottles. You drink quickly in good weather, the queue to buy takes time, plan for 1.5 liters per person easily.
  • Cash. Small artisan stands and some food trucks only take cash. Budget £50-70 per person for a full day (entry + meal + drink + small souvenir).
  • No need to wear a kilt. No dress code, come as you are. Jeans, sneakers, sweatshirt. Kilts are for competitors and clan members.
  • Phone battery. You take a lot of photos. Power bank in your bag.
  • Park early in the morning. If there is no dedicated motorhome parking, aim for a communal parking lot on the edge of the village, a 10-15 minute walk to the site.

FAQ Highland Games in Scotland

When do the Highland Games take place in Scotland?
The Highland Games season runs from May to September, peaking in July and August. Over sixty gatherings take place each summer across Scotland, from small villages to large cities. The exact dates vary each year, but every major city has its designated weekend. In Ballater, for example, the Games are scheduled for a Saturday in mid-August. Check the official calendar on visitscotland.com or shga.co.uk (Scottish Highland Games Association) before planning your road trip.
What are the most famous Highland Games?
The Cowal Highland Gathering in Dunoon, at the end of August, is the largest in the world with over 3,500 competitors in dancing, bagpiping, and sporting events. The Braemar Gathering, in early September, is the most historically famous (the British royal family traditionally attended, the grounds are right next to Balmoral). The Ballater Highland Games, in mid-August, have a more family-friendly and accessible atmosphere. Inverness, Dornoch, and Pitlochry also have their renowned editions. Each has its own personality, and medium-sized Games are recommended for a better experience of the atmosphere.
What is the caber toss?
The caber toss, or log throwing, is the most emblematic event of the Highland Games. The competitor lifts a stripped pine log about 5.5 meters long and weighing 80 kilos, holds it vertically, runs a few meters, and throws it while trying to make it complete a full rotation in the air. The performance is not judged by the distance but by the alignment of the fall: a successful caber toss lands at 12 o'clock (in perfect alignment with the thrower). Very impressive to watch in person.
What is a clan and what are tartans used for?
A clan in Scotland is a large extended family that shares a name, a historical territory in the Highlands, and a tartan (specific fabric pattern). The tartan allowed identification of clan membership during battles or gatherings. After the Jacobite defeat at Culloden in 1746, the wearing of the kilt and tartan was banned by the laws of proscription to suppress clan identity. It was only after the repeal of these laws and in the 19th century that the kilt and tartan became the national cultural symbol we know today. The Highland Games are one of the places where this clan culture is still visible: each clan has a stand, their tartan decorates the event, and some clans (Campbell, MacDonald, Stewart, MacGregor among the most famous) parade to the sound of bagpipes.
Where do the Highland Games come from?
The tradition dates back to the 11th century: King Malcolm III is said to have organized a race on the slopes of Craig Choinnich near Braemar to select the best messengers. The modern Games were mainly codified in the 19th century, after the repeal of the laws of proscription that had banned the kilt and bagpipes in the aftermath of Culloden in 1746. Queen Victoria greatly contributed to popularizing the Games by attending those in Braemar every year since 1848. Today, the Highland Games are both a sporting competition, a cultural celebration, and a means of transmitting Gaelic identity. People come for both the events and the competitions of dance, bagpipes, and clan parades.
How much does it cost to enter the Highland Games and what budget should you plan for?
Entry tickets range from about £10 to £20 for medium-sized Games (Ballater, Pitlochry), up to £25-30 for the larger ones (Cowal, Braemar). Children often have a reduced or free rate up to 5 years old. Additionally, plan for food and drink on-site (burgers, fish and chips, Scottish beer, whisky), easily £15-20 per person for a meal + drink, and possibly something to take home as a souvenir (tartan scarf, local honey, whisky, handcrafted items from clan stalls). Expect to spend £50-70 in total per person for a comfortable full day.
How to dress for the Highland Games?
No dress code: visitors come in everyday attire, and you don't feel out of place in jeans and sneakers. The only ones wearing kilts are the competitors, clan members, and musicians. From a vanlife perspective: plan for layers (Scottish weather changes quickly), good walking shoes (the ground is grassy, sometimes muddy), sunscreen and a hat (yes, even in Scotland, we got sunburned at the Ballater Games), and a waterproof jacket just in case. And bring a battery for your phone; we take a lot of photos.
How to get to the Highland Games on a road trip or in a camper van?
Organizers often plan a dedicated parking area near the venue, either free or for a few pounds. For vans and motorhomes, it's better to aim for a village Games rather than a big city: in Ballater, for example, the parking lot in front of the church in the center of the village accommodates motorhomes for several nights, with public toilets on site. Book your weekend: you can arrive the day before to enjoy the village and the setup, experience the Games on Saturday, and stay another night to attend the third half (pipe band parade in the streets in the evening). Tip: as the event is often exposed, bring sunscreen AND a waterproof jacket.

To go further on the Scottish road trip

Our PS that adds nothing

We fidgeted so much during the bagpipe events that we had a song stuck in our heads for the rest of the stay. We hummed it while doing the dishes in Edward. We hummed it while starting in the morning. At one point, Caroline said, “OK stop, let’s change the song.” I replied, “Yeah, but we don’t have their CD, they’re on Spotify.” She didn’t speak to me for 10 minutes. Very good Highland Games.