Edinburgh is the first city where we truly parked Edward (our camper van, for newcomers) after crossing the Scottish border from Berwick. And let’s be clear right away: this city captivated us, really. Not because everything was perfect (spoiler: parking, drizzly rain, and the Ghost Tour will get their share of criticism), but because it has that extra something, a mystical gothic atmosphere set on two ancient volcanoes, with bagpipers on street corners and a castle perched high above watching over you. In short, here’s our complete guide to discovering it by camper van, with the best tips, the real struggles, and our photos taken on-site during our Scottish road trip in the summer of 2022.
Video of our arrival in Edinburgh by camper van
Edinburgh by camper van: our favorites and struggles in 30 seconds
Before diving into the details (because yes, there will be details, we spent several days there with our bikes), here’s the honest summary to keep in mind.
What we loved: the heavy gothic architecture of the Old Town, Arthur’s Seat (the 251 m hike right in the center, which we didn’t expect at all), the Royal Botanic Garden (free, 28 hectares, great for unwinding after a day of hiking), the Greyfriars cemetery with the story of the dog Bobby, and the golden light on Calton Hill in the late afternoon.
Vanlife struggles to anticipate: camper van parking is far from the center (count 15 to 20 min by bike, it’s uphill all the time), payment terminals go through an app that often refuses French cards (true story, we had to run to the bank), waste disposal points are rare in the city (we ended up in a peripheral campsite), and the French roaming plan no longer covers the UK since Brexit, so a local SIM card is mandatory.
How to get to Edinburgh on a camper van road trip
If you’re coming from mainland Britain with your camper van, there are two options. We chose the second (by chance, as we were coming up from the Netherlands), but both are valid. And a quick note about driving on the left, because the first hour behind the wheel of a van with the steering wheel on the right is not exactly a walk in the park.
When to visit Edinburgh by camper van: climate and best season
Honestly, if you can choose: from May to September. This is the window when temperatures are bearable (14 to 22°C on average), the days are long (up to 17 hours of daylight in June), and parking spots are accessible without slipping in the mud. August is also the month of the Edinburgh International Festival and the Fringe (the largest performing arts festival in the world), so if you love the buzz, it’s THE time to go. Conversely, parking fills up and prices rise.
If you prefer calm and are willing to freeze your butt off, November to March is nice for the authentic gothic side (fog, dark facades, Christmas markets in December), but be prepared for horizontal rain and days that end at 4 PM. For vanlife, it’s borderline: heating running, condensation, we don’t recommend it for a first camper van experience in the UK.
City of Edinburgh : a glimpse of the weather
5-day forecast
Planning an unexpected departure? Check out the weekly weather before packing your bags.
Monthly climate
Weather-wise, our heart leans towards bright sunshine. That said, you might have different criteria for choosing when to visit.
| Month | Min temp | Max temp | Rain | Weather | Rating |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| July | 13°C | 20°C | 85 mm | 🌦️ | |
| August | 13°C | 20°C | 44 mm | ☀️ | |
| September | 10°C | 16°C | 79 mm | 🌦️ | |
| October | 8°C | 13°C | 91 mm | 🌦️ | |
| November | 5°C | 10°C | 157 mm | 🌧️ | |
| December | 4°C | 9°C | 106 mm | 🌦️ | |
| January | 2°C | 5°C | 71 mm | 🌦️ | |
| February | 4°C | 7°C | 72 mm | 🌧️ | |
| March | 4°C | 11°C | 61 mm | 🌦️ | |
| April | 5°C | 12°C | 59 mm | 🌦️ | |
| May | 8°C | 15°C | 55 mm | 🌦️ | |
| June | 12°C | 18°C | 83 mm | 🌧️ |
Where to sleep in Edinburgh in a campervan: 5 tested and rated spots
The most strategic subject of the trip, and let’s be honest: Edinburgh has no campervan area in the center. All the good spots are on the outskirts (15 to 25 min by bike from the Old Town), free or cheap, but without integrated services. Here’s our honest ranking after several nights spent on site.
- 📍🥇 Morrisons – 4 Piersfield Terrace: the large parking lot of the Morrisons store allows overnight campervan parking. On the northeast side, 4 km from the center. Water available at the tap of the nearby gas station (help yourself discreetly after a shopping trip in the supermarket). Paid during the day, free or very cheap at night. Our #1 choice if you want a minimum of services.
- 📍🥈 Duddingston Road West: free parking on the edge of the park, southeast of the city, 4 km from the center. Quiet, shaded, ideal for a restful night after a day exploring the Royal Mile. No services. Our real favorite for tranquility.
- 📍🥉 Duncan Place: free parking on a quiet street near Leith, close to the port and the sea. Convenient if you want to combine Edinburgh + a stroll on the docks. No services.
- 📍 Marine Esplanade: free parking with a sea view (yes, North Sea, it’s more austere than the Mediterranean but it’s still the sea). Wind to expect.
- 📍 Cramond Foreshore: free parking on the west side, close to Cramond beach. Nice for a beach day + evening in the van.
City of Edinburgh : Places we can tell you about
Here's our selection of places in City of Edinburgh: spots we've visited that might be useful to you. Use the list view to discover each address in detail, and export everything to add to Google Maps or your favorite GPS app.
| Place | Address | Download |
|---|---|---|
| 4 Piersfield Terrace (Morrisons) | 4 Piersfield Terrace, Edinburgh | |
| Duddingston Road West | Duddingston Road West, Edinburgh | |
| Duncan Place | Duncan Place, Leith, Edinburgh | |
| Marine Esplanade | Marine Esplanade, Edinburgh | |
| Cramond Foreshore | Cramond Glebe Rd, Edinburgh |
| Place | Address | Download |
|---|---|---|
| Martin Wishart | 54 Shore, Leith, Edinburgh | |
| Timberyard | 10 Lady Lawson St, Edinburgh | |
| Aizle | 38 Charlotte Square, Edinburgh | |
| Cafe St Honoré | 34 Thistle St North Ln, Edinburgh | |
| The Little Chartroom | 14 Bonnington Rd, Edinburgh |
Another practical point we hadn’t anticipated: dump stations are almost non-existent in the center. After 3 days, we had to leave Edinburgh to spend a night at the peripheral camping Edinburgh Caravan Club Site (on Marine Drive, to the east) to empty all tanks at once. Mortonhall Holiday Park to the south is another reliable option. So to integrate into the planning: plan for a camping night in the middle of the stay.
Internet and SIM card in Edinburgh: the £30 UK SIM that saved us
A little practical chapter because in vanlife, internet is not a luxury, it’s essential: video editing, Twitch live, spot searching, quick translations, weather. And here, bad news Brexit: your French plan in EU roaming no longer covers the UK since 2021, except for rare exceptions like Free Mobile which officially maintains it in fair-use (100 GB/month included). If you’re not with Free, two options:
- Local UK physical SIM: that’s what we did. In an operator’s shop in Edinburgh (we chose O2 but EE, Three UK, and Vodafone UK offer the equivalent), we walked out in 3 minutes with a 100 GB/month SIM for £30, no contract, renewable monthly by online recharge. You can cut it off whenever you want. The saleswoman set everything up, plug-and-play.
- eSIM Holafly UK: if your phone is eSIM compatible (iPhone XS+, most Samsung S20+, recent Google Pixel), it’s even simpler. You activate it in 10 minutes from the couch before leaving, no need to search for a shop. We now use Holafly for most of our destinations outside Europe (-5% discount with the code LAPLANETEDECARO).
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Lire le guide carte SIM ÉcosseWhat to do in Edinburgh in 2 or 3 days: our 10 must-sees tested
For the next part, we suggest a thematic breakdown rather than a day-by-day schedule (because honestly, it depends on your mood, the weather, and how long it takes you to digest a fish and chips). All these places, we visited. And when we were disappointed, we say it.
1. The Royal Botanic Garden (free, 28 hectares of breathing space)
The Edinburgh Botanic Garden dates back to 1670, making it one of the oldest in Europe. And it is free (just £1 symbolic for the orientation map at the reception, because 28 hectares can be lost quickly). The friendly staff had advised us two must-see spots: the floral area of the Demonstration Garden and the Rock Garden. Good instinct. The upper part of the Rock Garden has an unobstructed view of Arthur’s Seat which justifies the detour. Special mention to the gamified donation system: a little display where you slide your coins, making you more inclined to pay.
2. Greyfriars Cemetery and the dog Bobby
Known as the most haunted in the city, Greyfriars Cemetery is a must-see for its gothic side. Amid the human graves, a statue is dedicated to a dog: Bobby, the dog of an Edinburgh policeman, who after his master’s death stayed 14 years watching over his grave. His statue stands at the entrance of the cemetery, and legend has it that touching his golden nose brings good luck. He has become THE symbol of Scottish loyalty (and incidentally a good excuse for plenty of photos).
A little caveat though: despite its reputation as a “place of eternal peace,” it’s crowded. Tour guides shouting through megaphones, people literally picnicking on graves, children running in the aisles. Not really the solemnity one would expect. Go early in the morning (9-10am) for some peace and quiet.
3. Arthur’s Seat: the volcanic hike at 251 m right in the center
We absolutely did not expect to do mountain hiking in Edinburgh. We were wrong: Arthur’s Seat is an extinct volcano rising to 251 m, located right in Holyrood Park to the southeast of the city center. Expect a 30-45 minute climb via the main path from Holyrood Palace; it will work your thighs but is doable in regular sneakers. The panoramic view at the top is simply breathtaking: all of Edinburgh, the castle, the North Sea, and even Fife in the distance on a clear day.
Legend associated with the place: 17 small wooden coffins containing figurines were supposedly discovered on the hillside in the 19th century. It’s still unknown who made them or why. Eight remain today, displayed at the National Museum of Scotland. Guaranteed chills.
4. Calton Hill: the photogenic sunset spot
Another extinct volcano (yes, Edinburgh is built on several, I know, it’s unsettling), Calton Hill is a 10-minute walk from the center and offers a 360° panoramic view of the castle, Arthur’s Seat, and the sea. It’s the quintessential photo spot in the late afternoon, especially for the golden light. No ticket required, free access.
On Calton Hill, you’ll also find the National Monument, erected in honor of Scottish sailors and soldiers who died during the Napoleonic Wars. Very Greek style, white columns. At this stage of the trip, we started calling it our “Napoleon Tour” since the guy had his nose in everything across Europe.
5. Royal Mile and Victoria Street: the backbone of the Old Town
The Royal Mile is the grand cobbled artery that runs from Edinburgh Castle down to Holyrood Palace, exactly 1 mile (1.6 km, make the connection). Imposing, Gothic architecture, heavy, with a lot of history in every stone. We arrived via a small discreet passage that opens onto Victoria Street, one of the most photographed streets in the Old Town: a colorful curve with an arcade reminiscent of Diagon Alley for Harry Potter fans (yes, J.K. Rowling wrote a good part of the first book in cafes in the area, including The Elephant House which we didn’t try because the line of Potter fans spilled onto the sidewalk).
Also not to be missed in the area: Jackson’s Close, a narrow, shaded alley typical of the Old Town, leading to inner courtyards with a decidedly “secret passage” vibe.
6. Edinburgh Castle
Obviously THE monument to visit at least once, perched on Castle Rock (another volcano, yes), with an amazing view of the city. Expect to pay £19.50 per adult (online booking required during peak season, otherwise entry is denied), plan for 2 to 3 hours on-site to complete the tour (Crown Jewels, Stone of Destiny, military prison, One O’Clock Gun at 1 PM sharp). Honestly, it’s expensive and crowded, but it’s still a must if it’s your first time in Scotland.
7. Holyrood Park and the abandoned chapel
Exiting on the east side of the Old Town, you directly enter Holyrood Park, the royal park situated on the ancient volcano of Arthur’s Seat. Beyond the hike to the summit, the park houses an ancient ruined chapel (St Anthony’s Chapel) that used to serve for weddings and prayers in ancient times. A truly timeless atmosphere, guaranteed photo opportunity. And it’s free.
8. The Ghost Tour at 6:30 PM (honestly… skip it)
Caroline got lured in by a marketing text promising to “live your worst nightmare” about the legends and ghosts of the Old Town. Ghost Tour lasts 1.5 hours, starts at 6:30 PM, headphones + radio provided, two guides in costume. Her verdict: “the text was right, I lived my worst nightmare… it was terrible”. Fortunately, the acting saved it, they know how to captivate. Real problem: all in English with a Scottish accent, we understood a quarter of what was said. Expect to pay £18 to £25 per person depending on the operator. If you’re really into ghost stories, take a French-speaking tour (rare but it exists through certain agencies) or skip it, save your budget for something else.
9. Scott Monument and Princes Street Gardens
On the New Town side, the Scott Monument is this large black neo-Gothic spire (61 m high) erected in honor of Walter Scott, the great local writer. Princes Street Gardens at its feet is THE public park where people relax in the sun. And right next to it, the imposing statue of David Livingstone, which is shamelessly pooped on by pigeons. (Little Xavier moment: we also tested a bagpiper in traditional kilt in front of the monument, it makes for a great photo.)
10. Unusual: the H&M that only sells dirty clothes
I promise I’m not making this up: there is a shop in Edinburgh with the exact H&M sign that only sells dirty clothes. Probably a downgraded thrift store or an unapologetic arty installation, we never really understood. In doubt, it’s worth a visit just for the photo (and to verify that I’m not talking nonsense).
Where and what to eat in Edinburgh: our tested restaurants (with honesty)
Let’s set the stage: Edinburgh is not the place where we had the best food in Scotland, far from it. Glasgow, Ullapool, Lochinver, and Arbroath left a much stronger impression. But we still did some honest tests that are worth it if you know what you’re looking for.
Greyfriars Bobby’s Bar: haggis + basic fish and chips
Tourist pub but well-located (right next to Greyfriars cemetery), reputed as “one of the most photographed bars in Scotland”. Caroline tried haggis for the first time (sheep’s stomach stuffed with offal, that’s the idea, yes I know). Caroline’s verdict: “neither good nor bad, it’s complicated to describe, luckily there’s sauce and two types of mashed potatoes”. In short, it’s more of a cultural experience than a culinary revelation. As for me (Xavier), I had the fish and chips, well-fried, hearty, “it’s greasy but it’s good”. Except that the cheapest portion on the menu wasn’t enough for a man like me (ego sticker activated), so I ended up nibbling from Caroline’s plate. Expect to pay £15 to £22 per person with a beer. Toilets are upstairs via a staircase that also deserves a photo.
The Pantry: macaroni cheese and chemical Strawberry Cranachan
After the disappointing Ghost Tour, we headed to The Pantry at 8:30 PM (Stockbridge). On the menu: a macaroni cheese warm-comforting (not really al dente but we had run all day, it works). Good surprise for dessert: the Strawberry Cranachan, a traditional Scottish dessert made with strawberries, whipped cream, meringue, honey, and whisky. Except we got a mystery ingredient “with a very chemical color” that we never identified. Ultra-sweet and compact taste. A tasting, not a habit. Expect to pay £25 to £35 per person for starter + main + dessert.
O’Oliviero: the fallback Italian that works
Recurring pattern throughout our Scottish road trip: Aberdeen, Inverness, and Edinburgh, we always end up trying the city’s Italian when the local cuisine no longer convinces. O’Oliviero (in the Tollcross area) falls into this category: “pretty good”, decent pizza and pasta, family atmosphere, reasonable prices (£15 to £25 per person). Not a revelation but a safe bet for a no-surprise evening after an intensive day of sightseeing.
Quota RapidAPI dépassé (limite par minute/mois). Réessayez plus tard.
Budget for 2-3 days in Edinburgh in a campervan
Honest estimate for two people in a campervan (including Édouard), based on our experience from 2022 updated for 2026:
- 🚐 Campervan parking: free (Duddingston, Duncan Pl, Cramond) or ~£6-12/night (Morrisons, urban parking)
- 🏕️ Peripheral camping for waste disposal + services: 1 night ~£25-35 (Edinburgh Caravan Club Site or Mortonhall)
- 🍽️ Restaurants in the city: £25 to £50 per person per meal depending on ambition (haggis pub vs Italian vs gastro)
- 🎟️ Activities: largely free (Royal Botanic Garden, Holyrood Park, Calton Hill, Greyfriars). Paid: Edinburgh Castle £19.50/adult, Ghost Tour £18-25/person, Edinburgh Dungeon £22/person
- 📱 UK SIM card: £30 for 100 GB (one-shot, no commitment)
- ⛽ Fuel for 100 km: ~£18-22 (UK diesel end of 2025 ~£1.55-1.65/L)
Estimated total for 2 people over 3 days/2 nights: between £220 (budget option, cooking in the van, few paid activities) and £480 (restaurant every night, castle + 1 paid activity). Expect an average of ~£320 for 3 days in reasonable campervan comfort mode.
Can you sleep in a campervan for free in Edinburgh?
Where to park a motorhome in Edinburgh to visit the city center?
How many days does it take to visit Edinburgh?
What is the best time to visit Edinburgh by camper van?
Which SIM card to use in Edinburgh with a van registered in France?
How to reach Edinburgh by campervan from the UK?
Are waste disposal points and water sources easy to find in Edinburgh?
Do you need a specific license to drive a motorhome on the left in the UK?
To go further: our other stops in Scotland in a campervan
If Edinburgh has made you want to continue the Scottish adventure (and frankly, it would be a shame to stop there), here are the cities we particularly loved and documented in dedicated campervan guides. A special mention to Ullapool (our true favorite in the north), Portree (Isle of Skye), and Inverness (gateway to the Highlands).
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Lire le guide completOur final verdict: Is Edinburgh worth a visit in a camper van?
Honest answer: yes, a thousand times yes. But with a few vanlife precautions. The city is stunning, the atmosphere truly unique, history at every corner. The downside is that it’s not designed for camper vans (parking far from the center, rare waste disposal, complicated payment for Brits), so a bit of planning is necessary. But it’s definitely worth it.
If you have only one urban stop to make in Scotland, make it Edinburgh. Glasgow has its charm too (and we ate better there), but Edinburgh is the capital, with the castle, volcanoes right in the city, and that gothic vibe you won’t find anywhere else in Europe. Three days are enough for the must-sees, but we could have stayed a week without getting bored.
PS: If you go after us, bring us a real answer about the H&M for dirty clothes, we’re still puzzled.